see also:

• photography and camping main index page
• Victorian law - pool safety barriers

• whilst having an in ground swimming pool seems like a great idea in such a warm country as Australia, you really need to consider the many, many downsides to owning one as they can become a labour intensive and a climate change unfriendly money pit

• your quote will probably NOT include extras such as:
  • rock blasting if you live in an area with a large amount of near surface rock and such rock blasting is likely to also cause structural damage to your house and perhaps neighbors' houses, many of which may not materialise for some time
  • damage to your outdoor infrastructure such as stormwater drains and outdoor paving caused by excavators
  • costs of ensuring compliance with state law regarding pool safety - installation of pool fences, window lock devices that prevent windows opening too far, etc
  • cost of a thermal blanket to maintain temperature and reduce water evaporative losses
  • solar water heating system
    • if you really want to have minimal ongoing electricity costs, you may wish to consider a DualSun system which generates electricity as well as heating pool water directly but such a system will cost around $20,000 for a typical pool
    • most people would opt for the much cheaper, standard rubber tubing water heating system
  • paving around the pool

• pool chemicals these could easily get to $500-800 per year
• electricity cost for pump running 365 days a year for 8-12 hours/day to ensure it remains clean plus the solar water pump, this could easily get you to $1000-2000 per year
• if you are crazy enough to keep it warm for longer periods with gas heater or heat pumps then this will be a substantial extra cost
• water costs - in summer you could lose 1000L per week, even more if you have plumbing leaks!
• change of “media” in the sand filter every few years
• house insurance premiums are likely to be higher as:
  • increased public liability risk from drownings or pool leakage issues
  • increased cost of repairs to the pool system due to major damage
  • risk of solar PV panel damage in extreme hail storms
• potential for civil or criminal law suits if a child suffers due to negligence relating to barrier laws
• manual labour of pool cleaning - this is at least a weekly chore
• costs of compulsory pool barrier safety inspections depending on State law:
  • for Victoria as of Dec 2019:
    • https://www.vba.vic.gov.au/consumers/swimming-pools
    • you must register your pool and spa with the relevant council and pay the fee
    • pay for the pool barrier inspection every 4 years
    • pay for lodging the inspection certificate (failure to lodge may incur a $1652 fine)
    • ensure non-compliant aspects are addressed within 60 days and satisfied by re-inspection otherwise have to pay council on lodging the non-compliant certificate (~$400) and the council could then issue a building notice or a barrier improvement notice and if you fail to meet this then a $1650 fine may be issued
• repair costs:
  • glass type solar PV panels, including DualSun are meant to be designed to AS 2712-2007 standard but this standard only provides protection against hail stone impacts up to 35mm (golf ball size), larger ones may destroy the panels in the same way they destroy car windscreens¹⁾, and your house insurance may or may not have protection against such damage - and if you do declare you have a solar panel system your premium may be increased to allow for such damage.
  • if your concrete leaks then you could be in for major repair costs
• replacement of parts is common:
  • most parts will need replacing after 10-20 years including your solar roof collector rubber piping which perishes over time and becomes increasingly vulnerable to even small hail stones
  • the sand filter will need to be emptied and refilled with clean medium every 7-10 yrs
  • the pool pumps and sand filter are likely to need to be replaced every 10-20yrs
  • it is likely to need a major renovation in 20-30 years which will cost at least $30,000 for a small concrete pool to remove and replace the pool surface and pool waterline and coping tiling
• you may end up paying someone to remove the pool

• these will develop:
  • oily scum line: brown/grey band at the waterline that feels greasy - usually sunscreen and body oils.
  • calcium carbonate scale: Chalky or flaky white crust that may fizz if touched with acid; fairly soft once acid is applied
  • heavier / older scale: Hard, glassy white or grey deposits that do not respond well to weak acids; often needs pumice, soda blasting, or professional treatment
• preventive maintenance:
  • keep calcium hardness, pH and alkalinity in range
  • keep water level as high as possible
  • brush or sponge the waterline weekly
  • a tile sealant can slow future buildup on some surfaces
• cleaning:
  • reduce water level to below waterline to allow cleaning agents work without being diluted
  • remove loose debris first (leaves, dirt, grass) with a net or vacuum so you are not grinding grit into the tile or grout
  • use a nylon or other non‑metal brush; soft for glass, stiffer for ceramic
  • DO NOT use wire brushes as these will scratch the tiles
  • scum, oils and light grime:
    • spray or wipe on equal parts white vinegar and water, or use a mild dishwashing liquid solution or baking‑soda paste, then scrub and rinse
    • melamine “magic eraser” sponges are very effective on waterline scum and light deposits and are generally safe on ceramic/porcelain/glass when used gently
    • enzyme‑based tile/waterline cleaners (sold as tile and liner cleaners) are designed to break down oils without adding problematic chemicals to the pool
  • calcium scale on tiles:
    • undiluted white vinegar left on the scale for 5–10 minutes, then scrub with a stiff nylon brush; works well on fresh, powdery scale
    • for heavier scale, use a wet pumice stone or dedicated stain eraser, keeping both stone and tile wet to reduce scratching, and avoid use on soft or glassy finishes.
    • as a last resort, carefully use pool‑grade acids (muriatic/hydrochloric acid or sulfamic) applied with a sponge or watering can, wearing PPE, treating small sections, and then re‑balancing pH/alkalinity afterwards
    • finally, if the scale is extensive, very hard, or on delicate glass mosaic, consider professional soda or bead blasting rather than aggressive DIY abrasion

• run the pool pump at least 6-8hrs a day to ensure the water is kept clean
• ensure the pool chemicals are maintained at correct levels
• brush the steps, corners and sides of the pool at least once a week
• run a suction cleaner as often as possible (more effective cleaning than robotic cleaners but may miss sections)
• consider using a robotic cleaner as an extra option
• if pool water is becoming cloudy or green:
  • backwash and rinse the sand filter
  • check the phosphate level - if too high, add a phosphate remover (this will reduce algal growths) - you will need to backwash or send to waste
  • if green, add an algaecide
  • consider adding a super chlorine dose - especially after storms
  • if cloudy, add a cloud remover - you will need to backwash or send to waste - follow instructions

• you will generally know what pressure your pump normally runs at eg. 50-80kPa for many systems - if it is substantially higher than this then there is a problem
• check the pressure gauge is working and falling to zero when turned off
• backwash the sand filter until water is clear then do a rinse for at least 1 minute
• if sand filter has an air bleed valve, then bleed this until water comes out
• if pressure still too high, if the sand filter has recirculate, set to this mode to bypass the media and see if the media is the issue
  • if pressure drops then it is likely that the media in the sand filter needs replacing
    • this is also suggested as the cause if the pressure rises quickly again within hours to days after a backwash/rinse clean cycle
  • if pressure stays high this would suggest an inline blockage somewhere between the filter and the water outlet
    • check the valves are set correctly
    • check the return outlets are not partially blocked
    • check for faulty multiport valve
      • with pump off and depressurised, open the multiport head (if practical) to look for broken spider gasket, obstructions, or misalignment that could partially choke all modes including recirculate.
    • if all this is normal,
      • if flow from the outlets feels strong then it may just be normal operating pressure
      • otherwise you may need to get experts in to do pressure/flow testing
• this may also occur if a higher flow pump is installed

• Prime loss in a pool pump occurs when the pump fails to maintain suction, causing it to draw in air instead of water, this breaks the vacuum seal needed for operation, often resulting in no water flow, air bubbles in the pump basket, or the pump running dry and overheating
  • pumps need water flow (prime) for lubrication and preventing over-heating, running without prime damages the impeller and motor through overheating or cavitation (vapor bubbles collapsing)
  • signs of loss of prime include:
    • air bubbles in the pump basket or return jets, with the strainer basket only partially filled or swirling instead of steady water flow
    • water level drops in the pump housing or visible leaks (dripping) around suction-side fittings, lids, or valves when running or shut off
    • no water movement or spitting air from returns after priming attempt
    • loud rushing water sound when shutting off the pump, indicating air trapped in the filter pushing water back
    • pump runs but produces no pressure or flow, overheating quickly, or fails to restart without re-priming
    • frequent need to manually re-prime by filling pump basket with water after short runs or overnight, especially if water drains back from suction line
  • fill the pump basket fully with water before starting
• Cavitation
  • cavitation often follows restricted suction (clogs, high lift) with pump still “wet-running,” while prime loss shows obvious air entry and total flow stoppage
  • causes reduced flow but some output with fluctuating pressure, high vibration and stead rumble from implosions and sounds like gravel rattling, crackling, popping, or marbles (vapor bubbles imploding) rather than the gurgling, sputtering, or air rushing of prime loss
  • repeated cavitation in pool systems stems from ongoing suction restrictions that drop inlet pressure below the water's vapor pressure, forming and collapsing bubbles that damage the impeller
  • cavitation from air leaks shows intermittent air bubbles in the pump basket alongside gravel-like rattling, as air aspiration mimics vapor collapse but quiets briefly when leaks are sealed with soapy water or oil. Cavitation from piping restrictions cause steady cavitation noise (popping/marble rumble) with no/low air visible, reduced but consistent flow, and higher vibration from sustained low NPSH due to clogs or friction.
  • mainly caused by:
    • clogged strainers or filters
    • suction-side air leaks
    • chronic low pool water levels create vortexing at skimmers, pulling air and reducing net positive suction head (NPSH)
    • excessive suction lift or long/thin pipes: pump mounted too high, undersized plumbing, or too many elbows/fittings increase friction losses
    • high resistance from overdue backwashing or wrong filter size for pump horsepower
    • pump is too powerful and runs too fast for system head, operating right of its curve and cavitating
• most common cause is air in the pipes and pump
  • check pump filter basket first: air dominance = prime loss; noisy flow with water = cavitation;
  • with pump off, open the pre-filter of the pump, clean out any debris, then keep filling it up with buckets of water to flush out the air, then re-try the pump
  • if there is a persistent problem look for where air may be being sucked in:
    • not enough water in the pool so air is sucked in at the skimmer box via a vortex
    • suction cleaner hoses have a leak
    • cracks, loose fittings, worn O-rings, or faulty seals in pipes, valves, or pump housing let air infiltrate - may need to check with soapy water on the outside of pipes and fittings
• could there be a blockage between the intake from the pool and the sand filter?
  • check skimmer box and remove debris
    • debris in skimmer/pump strainers or a dirty filter restricts flow, leading to cavitation or deadheading
  • check for blockage at intake
  • with pump turned off, check pre-filter of the pump and remove any debris and while there check the pump impeller for debris
  • check valves leading to pump to ensure they are set correctly
• otherwise, pump may have failed - if it is more than 10-15 years old, it probably needs replacement anyway

• inadequate pump pressure - see above
• too high a pump pressure when suction cleaner device is disconnected and pulsing low pressures when suction cleaner device connected
  • see above under too high pressures
• faulty connection to skimmer box or air leak
• air leak in tubing or at connections of tubes
• stone stuck in diaphragm - remove stone
• hole in diaphragm - replace diaphragm
• damaged rubber base - replace rubber base or the whole head

• this requires creating a sealed roof over the pool that is strong enough to walk on so that you can use it as a patio extension as well
• http://www.northcoasttanks.com.au/index.php/pools/pool-to-tank-conversions
• http://perthgreywaterandrainwater.com.au/convert-swimming-pool-to-rainwater-tank.html

• you will still need to keep your pool safety measures in place
• https://www.abc.net.au/gardening/factsheets/a-suburban-oasis/9435162
• if you have a chlorine pool, just stop the pump, cease using chemicals, put in some raised platforms for plants and wait for the wrigglers to tolerate the water and then it should be safe to start adding plants and fish
• if you don't damage the pool, it can be re-converted back to a pool just by reversing the process and with a bit of cleaning!

• https://witcheegardens.wordpress.com/garden-photos/

• an A-Frame over the pool can create a sealed work / leisure space