tripods
Summary:
first, what NOT to buy:
there is no such thing as a cheap, lightweight & sturdy tripod - so beware and avoid false economy and wasting your money - perhaps decide first on which tripod head you want THEN a tripod to match.
a large heavy tripod may be fine for a studio or for the 600mm f/4 lenses but in reality, you won't be taking them places so get something a bit more portable.
should you pay extra for carbon fibre?
“Just about all the “big name” nature pros have switched to carbon fiber tripods. If you have to carry them far in the field, the lower weight is a big advantage. You still can't beat the Bogen 3021 ($100) for value if cost is an issue. There's no doubt that carbon fiber tripods are better in just about every way (stability, weight) than similar aluminum tripods. Only you and your wallet can decide if they are worth the extra cost.”
the newer Feisol tripods may represent a good buy for advanced amateurs who need light weight, good quality tripods.
if you sit on a carbon fibre leg, it will break!
if you are doing bird/wildlife photography with Canon or Nikon monster lenses such as 500-600mm f/4:
if you have a kit similar to the 3kg total of Canon 1D series dSLR with a 70-200mm f/2.8L lens then:
Buying a tripod is a compromise between cost, height, weight, compactness, functionality, and strength. If you spend a lot of time backpacking, you will be more willing to pay extra for carbon fibre or similar technologies to reduce weight.
If you can you should try to get a tripod that will be high enough so you don't have to bend over too much, and realize that one should generally avoid using the central column in a raised position as this adds to camera movement.
Also you need a tripod that will fold down small enough to fit into your backpack. Studio photographers of course won't place as much emphasis on compactness or weight but strength, stability and height become more important.
In general, twist mechanisms on legs are more susceptible to getting clogged with sand. Tripods with 3 or 4 preset leg angles allow for more precise and stable leg positions. A removable head is important as a cheap head can be frustrating as the camera moves as you tighten it.
Although carbon fibre tripods are generally lighter, they are more susceptible to abrasion and need to be treated more carefully.
I decided to go with the Feisol CT-3442 as it is only 1kg and at the end of the day, if the tripod is too heavy or too big, you wont have it with you when you need it. I also bought a matching levelling base and horizontal arm kit.
I decided for the time being to stick with my Manfrotto 488RC4 ball head which suits the tripod nicely although really adds weight to it and you can't fold the legs around it as you can do with a Feisol head, but one day I will upgrade this.
Gitzo tripods:
Gitzo classify their tripods into series (this is the 3rd digit of the product code ie. the digit after GT) according to the diameter of the 1st tube:
Series 00 (tabletop) = 16mm ⇒ max. load ~3kg - for compact cameras, dSLRs with up to 75mm lenses
Series 0 (weekend) = 20mm ⇒ max. load ~4.5-5kg - for compact cameras, dSLRs with up to 75-135mm lenses
Series 1 (sport) = 24mm ⇒ max. load 5.5-8kg - for compact cameras, dSLRs with up to 135-200mm lenses
Series 2 (reporter) = 28mm ⇒ max. load 8.5-12kg - for dSLRs with up to 200-300mm lenses
Series 3 (studex) = 32mm ⇒ max. load 12.5-18kg - for medium format, pro-dSLRs
Series 4 (pro studex) = 37mm ⇒ max. load 16kg (aa)
Series 5 (tele studex) = 41mm ⇒ max. load 20-25kg
max. load ranges given relate to lower end being for aluminium alloy (aa) and higher end for carbon fibre (cf) with basalt in the middle. Gitzo also have a new material Soulid 238 developed in 2006.
if purchasing a Gitzo tripod head, it should be of the same series as the tripod for best compatibility, however, you may prefer to purchase a RRS tripod head instead.
a tripod's torsional angle should be smaller than the viewing angle of the lens being used
a 200mm lens in 35mm terms has a view angle of 12deg and should be used on a Series 2 tripod or higher, otherwise extra care needs to be taken to avoid strong winds
a 300mm lens should be used on a Series 3 tripod or higher;
a 400mm lens should be used on a Series 4 tripod or higher;
a 500mm lens should be used on a Series 5 tripod;
Gitzo further classify their tripods according to features & identified by the suffix (in brackets):
traveller (T) - compact, lightweight with 180deg leg folding mechanism making it 25% shorter for packing it away.
levelling (LVL) - in-built levelling of tripod head
explorer (EX) - versatile, ability to use centre column as horizontal arm
traditional
systematic (S) - customisable; ultra-wide platform;
geared (G)
Gitzo code according to material by using the 4th digit of the code (ie. the 2nd digit after the GT):
basalt = 9
carbon fibre = 5
aluminium = 2
the 5th digit of the Gitzo code is how many sections in the legs.
within each category their are a range of options based on material used and maximum height
Feisol tripods
Feisol CT-3441S:
twist lock carbon fibre travel tripod weighing 1kg and max. load of 10kg with leg diameter of 28mm.
folds to 43cm, extends to 128cm or 178cm with extended centre column.
optional short column allows min. height of 19cm
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Feisol CT-3442:
looks a good, versatile, light, compact travel/bushwalking tripod that could potentially be used up to a 500mm f/4 lens on a dSLR as long as it was not windy.
twist lock carbon fibre travel tripod weighing 1.05kg and max. load of 10kg with leg diameter of 28mm.
folds to 48cm, extends to 138cm or higher with extended optional centre column.
min. height of 16cm
$US299-309
improvements over the older CT 3401N:
uses a higher grade carbon fibre to increase stiffness and reduce weight
max load increased by ~43% (7kg to 10kg)
lighter by 200 – 300 grams (1/2 to 3/4 pound)
the legs can folded upward to surround the ball head to reduce the overall folded length (only works with their new CB-50D head)
optional accessories include:
CT-3442CC centre column kit $US39 weighs 200g
horizontal adapter - I presume its the PB-70HA $US49 209g (the PB-70HA kit includes a centre column at $US85)
panning base - I presume its the PB-70 $US39 170g (this appears to be part of the horizontal adapter kit)
CB-50D ball head plus QP-144750 quick release plate $US159 760g in box, extra plates $US19
location of knobs 120deg apart allows this tripod to reverse its legs and fold it compactly.
other heads that *may* allow legs to fold (this needs verifying) include:
nb. uses a M6 screw to attach QR clamp to ball thus not compatible with other manufacturer's QR clamps
CB-70H ball head plus QP-144750 quick release plate $US245 1300g in box, extra plates $US19
levelling base LB-7567
long or short leg spikes
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Tripod heads:
You also need to consider a good tripod head.
Unless you do panoramic stitching which requires a special head for best results, I prefer a ball head with a quick release plate system, and preferably a levelling bubble to help you ensure your camera is level with the horizon.
A pro ball head is faster to use, more stable and easier to carry than a 3-axis pan-tilt tripod head, while the better ball heads offer variable drag (tension) that makes them even easier to control. Avoid mini-balls which don't have a panning bed to allow left-right rotation.
If your camera + lens is greater than 6kg (15lb) then it is safer to use a geared head or Wimberley head rather than a ball head.
Arca Swiss compatible heads:
The common proprietary quick release plates have a flat top which cause one big problem - the camera can pivot on it, especially in the portrait position as there is no locking facility to prevent such rotation of the camera on the plate. The sole exception is the Arca-Swiss system which includes:
original Arca Swiss monoball
newer Arca-Swiss:
B1:
historically the most popular head of all times, especially for advanced amateurs and many professionals
it's expensive, but rugged, and handles heavy cameras and lenses with ease.
has a tendency to lock up unexpectedly due to its elliptical design
B1E
B1G
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BH-55:
one of the best heads if weight not important & better than the Arca Swiss B1 although need to swap hands to pan
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? incompatibilities with lever clamp version & some plates (eg. Markins, Arca Swiss)
BH-40:
BH-25:
designed mainly for macro work; max. load ~4kg, ideal for dSLR with up to 200mm macro lens;
also useful for lightweight backpacking with Gitzo 0-Series and 1-Series tripods
for travel, consider the BH-25 Pro on a set of Gitzo 1158T Traveler.
The unique legs on the G1158T fold back over themselves, creating a collapsed length that is 2“ shorter.
Collapsed length of G1158T with BH-25 Pro = 18'
BH-25Pro ~$US145 and weighs 186g
Graf’s large, older model Studioball
Foba’s Superball Quick Release ballhead
Foba’s Mini-Superball
Kirk’s BH-1
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$US270, half the weight of a B1 so may be an option for hiking as it can support 11kg
unlike most others, ball can be cleaned
has a greater range and freedom of motion on the front side of the ballhead than the V2, this is often desirable for close-up photography
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$US330, 0.45kg, supports 11kg,
now has a separate friction control
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additional functionality as a gimbal head for lenses up to 400mm f/4
$US350, 0.45kg, supports 11kg,
F & L Photo’s P1-Q
the following can be modified to fit Arca Swiss:
unfortunately you cannot modify Slik, Manfrotto, or Kaiser ballheads.
Each camera type requires a specific Arca Swiss compatible plate:
NB. RRS ball heads with lever release clamps are ONLY compatible with plates by RRS or Wimberley.
eg. RRS plate for a Canon 1D series dSLR costs ~$US55 (B57) and for a L plate costs ~$US183 (B57L).
or RRS B86 plate ($US55) for Ring B or C collared Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L lenses
other accessories:
RRS's L-plate that makes portrait vs landscape much easier.
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precision macro focusing rails
camera bar can be used for:
macro focusing rail
copy stand rack
multiple cameras mounted for stereography
as a boom to assist in positioning your camera
with a end rail to create a support for camera and long lens simultaneously
Panoramic heads:
although you could use a ball head with a panning bed at its base, mounted on a levelling base but then you have to level the base and then level the camera on the ball head.
alternatively, get a special panning head:
in addition, to ensure the lens nodal point is exactly over the centre of the tripod, you need a nodal slide:
in addition, if you wish to shoot in portrait position to get more sky in, you need a RRS L-plate
if however, you wish to do multiple row panoramas then just get the following package:
see also:
automatic motorized panoramic tripod heads
Other ball heads:
If you really can't afford an Arca Swiss compatible heads and you only have a relatively small camera and lens, you can try:
In the Manfrotto range, the 488 or 468 RC4 would be nice but it is a bit big & heavy for hiking and the new hydrostatic one is some $A580 while the older style is some $A440 and suffers from movement of the camera when tightening the knob. For digital work on hikes, the smaller, lighter 484 or 486 RC2 may suffice but neither have a levelling bubble, and will not be stable enough for medium format cameras but at a much more affordable $A165 and $A105 respectively may be the best option.
Tripod levelling base:
To really get things level though, you should consider an additional levelling base which sits on your tripod and supports the tripod head. The levelling base should have a bubble level and allow you to adjust the level without having to change heights of individual tripod legs. The downside is extra cost and weight - eg. the Gitzo 1321 Levelling Base weighs about 1.5lbs. or the MARKET:MKT2||Gitzo GS5120VL which only fit Gitzo Systematic tripods in place of a centre column. The Manfrotto 338 levelling base weighs 0.6kg (~$A190) and unlike the Gitzo's half ball mechanism, it uses 3 dials to adjust.
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RRS tutorial recommends the Gitzo 1321 as THE ONLY levelling base worth buying BUT it is only compatible with certain Gitzo tripods
but now suggests the Gitzo GS5120LVL if you have the Gitzo Systematic series tripod (GT3530S, GT3530LSV).
As I bought the Feisol CT-3442 tripod, I bought their matching levelling base, the LB-7567 which weighs 435g and costs $US79 which seems simple to use with its half ball base and bubble level although fine adjustment may not be as easy. Looks similar to the Gitzo.
To get best results avoid using the centre column in a raised position as this is not as stable for the camera which is more likely to move in the wind. Even better, remove this centre column and your tripod will weigh less - but if you do this make sure the tripod is tall enough without it. Alternatively, special “levelling tripods” have built in rapid levelling mechanisms.
Gitzo Al13 aluminium tripods are 30% lighter than normal aluminium, while basalt composite is 45% lighter and carbon fibre is 65% lighter.
Let's look at a few tripods for the backpacker:
| weight (kg) | size (cm) | min. ht | Min. ht erect | Max. ht | Max. load (kg). |
458B Neotec | 2.4 | 64 | 10 | 131 | 156 | 8 |
055MF4 MAG FIBER 4 Sections | 2.0 | 54 | 11 | 131 | 165 | 7 |
055MF3 MAG FIBER 3 Sections | 2.0 | 64 | 11 | 135 | 169 | 7 |
055DB BASIC | 2.2 | 61 | 8 | 137 | 181 | 7 |
190MF4 MAG FIBER 4 section | 1.6 | 46 | 11 | 114 | 131 | 4 |
190DB MINI BASIC | 1.7 | 53 | 8 | 116 | 145 | 5 |
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Gitzo 1349 | | | | | | |
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Gitzo GT2540VL levelling 4 section carbon tripod | 1.7 | 61 | 32 | 151 | 172 | 12 |
Gitzo GT3540LS Systematic 4 section carbon tripod | 1.7 excl. centre column kit or levelling base | 55 | 10 | 146 | | 18 |
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Feisol CT-3441S 4 section carbon | 1.0 | 49 | 19 | 128 | 178 | 10 |
Feisol CT-3301N 3 section carbon | 1.2/1.4 incl. centre column | 56 | 19 | 134 | 171 | 7 |
Feisol CT-3342 3 section carbon | 1.03 | 59 | 18 | 142 | | 10 |
Feisol CT-3442 4 section carbon | 1.05 | 48 | 16 | 138 | | 10 |
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tips from the net:
Some people don't like the Gitzo leg locks.
Gitzo's twist-lock although not as quick to setup as Bogen/Manf.'s snap-lock, is still very nice and easy.
There is a trick to this: do not over-tighten the locks! If you do, ultimately, it will require even more tightening, etc., and become more annoying. Tighten the locks one quarter turn past when you first feel resistance, and that's it. Also, extend the leg locks working from the lowest lock first, untwist that, extend, go up the tripod leg. If anything slips, slightly tighten the upper locks. Reverse the procedure to collapse.
“They use a rotating collar lock design with very few parts (so they don't break) and which can be taken apart and cleaned in the field with no tools. There's also nothing sicking out from the legs to catch on branches, cameras straps etc. That's the good part. The bad part is that you have to tighten them in the right order and with the right tension or the legs can be a real pain to extend. If you don't tighten the top one enough and overtighten the lower one, then when you try to losen the lower leg lock, the upper leg rotates, not the lock. You can have endless fun trying to extend all the sections. Evetually you can learn the right tightning sequence and tension, but you will still long for the Bogen “flip” locks which take seconds to operate, not minutes. However the Bogen locks sometimes come loose (requiring a nut driver and scredriver to tighten) and they occasionally break, so they aren't perfect either.”
Some people don't like the Bogen/Manf.'s snap-lock as fingers always get pinched opening the leg lock.
Induro's new tripods:
C413:
sling mounting point may break in heavy use
should use supplied wrench to ensure interchangeable metal spike feet don't vibrate undone and get lost.
no top plate so that the center column can be removed.
the large leg release grips were found to work well, even when wet or cold.
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monopods for wildlife photography:
making your camera even more stable:
avoid using your centre column
ensure legs are firmly planted, spiked legs are even better
don't extend the legs if you don't have to
put downward pressure on your lens above the tripod mount with your hand or a bean bag
add weight to the setup by hanging rocks or camera bag
use an eyecup and press eye against it to further stabilise camera
use a cable release, remote release or self timer
use mirror lockup
use a lens tripod mount rather than the camera tripod mount if available
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