June, 2012

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My photo travel kit for 4 weeks in UK and Ireland – Olympus E-M5 and awesome lenses all under 4.5kg including iPad and other goodies

Thursday, June 7th, 2012

Have just finished packing my bags for my 4 week trip to UK and Ireland.

I chose Micro Four Thirds when it first came out because I realised it would be THE camera kit for international travel with its limited airline carry-on luggage weight and size limits.

The awesome Olympus OM-D E-M5 camera is small, light, weatherproof and gives high image quality, shallow DOF when I need it with lovely bokeh from the lenses which are image stabilised meaning I really will not need a big tripod even at night without a flash.

So what did I bring to fit into a normal hiker’s backpack and have it all weigh in at only 4.5kg?

travel kit

and with the E-M5, 12mm f/2.0, 14-42mm kit lens, 45mm f/1.8, clip on flash and spare battery all fitting easily in a LowePro TopLoad Zoom 1 bag for added protection:

travel kit with bag

The 4.5kg consists of:

  • cheap hiker’s day backpack
  • Apple iPad (to back up my photos)
  • Apple iPhone
  • Olympus OM-D E-M5 camera
  • Olympus mZD 12mm f/2.0 lens
  • Olympus mZD 14-42mm II lens
  • Olympus mZD 45mm f/1.8 lens
  • Panasonic Leica-D Four Thirds 25mm f/1.4 lens with MMF-2 adapter
  • Olympus ZD Four Thirds 50-200mm f/2.8-3.5 SWD lens with weatherproof MMF-3 adapter and lens case
  • Panasonic Lumix 14-140mm HD lens (old habits die hard – I find this nice for walkaround travel shots during daytime when I can’t be bothered changing prime lenses)
  • spare SD cards
  • spare battery
  • LowePro TopLoader Zoom1 camera bag
  • travel docs and miscellaneous items

In addition, I put some cheaper items in checked in luggage which with my Aussie winter clothes and boots for the UK summer came to under 16kg:

  • compact travel tripod (in case I need to do shots longer than half a second)
  • Olympus FL-36R flash (in case I do indoor portraits and available light is not nice)
  • Rokinon 85mm f/1.4 manual focus lens with Canon EOS to MFT adapter (well I just couldn’t leave this one at home!)
  • Sigma 19mm f/2.8 Micro Four Thirds lens
  • ND gradient filters, other filters, battery chargers, iPad SD card adapter, power board, etc.

The ONLY other lens which I considered bringing is my lovely Olympus ZD Four Thirds 7-14mm ultra wide angle zoom lens but I would be start to push through the 5kg back pack weight, it was too expensive to put in checked in baggage, and thus I decided this time, I would leave it at home.

I thus have 24mm to 400mm focal length range fully covered with high quality image stabilised lenses (thanks to the E-M5), lovely wide aperture low light lenses and some nice bokeh lenses.

That should be plenty enough to give me fun even in dreary, rainy, dark UK weather.

ps.. apologies for the lousy DOF in these photos, I used my Canon 1D Mark III in low light indoors and had to resort for a wide aperture as I didn’t have time to get the flash out.

Note that I may not get to post much in the next 4 weeks as the iPad, and as I understand it, rather shaky mobile ineternet in rural UK and Ireland may make posting blogs difficult, plus I will be having too much fun with my E-M5 to actually bother using the internet.

Olympus OM-D E-M5 Micro Four Thirds camera takes a portrait of the lady of the night – the Transit of Venus

Thursday, June 7th, 2012

The transit of venus across the sun is quite a rare astronomical event happening on paired events each century or so.

I captured the 1st of this paired event in June 2004 whilst I was in Cairns in northern Queensland, Australia using the only digital camera I had at that time – a hand held Olympus C8080WZ 8 megapixel prosumer camera with a teleconverter attached and an astronomical solar filter – here is a collage I made at the time:

 

2004 transit collage

Today I decided to get a quick shot in before I had to race off to work just minutes before this event finished and none of us will see such an event again.

This time, I had the luxury of using the awesome Olympus OM-D E-M5 Micro Four Thirds camera combined with my Zuiko Digital EC-20 2x teleconverter and ZD 50-200mm f/2.8-3.5 SWD lens, and the same solar filter hanging on the end of the lens (it is way too big for this lens!)

At a 35mm effective focal length of 800mm and resorting to manual focus, a sturdy tripod with self-timer was critical to success.

The exposure I chose hopefully optimised image quality by using ISO 200, f/11 and 1/160th sec through the clouds which dominated today in Melbourne.

The image shown below is a cropped, and resized version for quick web display, you can click on it to view the original, unprocessed (except for default Lightroom export sharpening) image which has been cropped to give a nicer aspect.

The big circle is the sun with clouds in front of it, while the black dot is Venus just about to finish her transit across the face of the sun. You can also see a number of sunspots – better viewed on the large version by clicking on this image.

2012 transit

Olympus OM-D E-M5 vs full frame dSLR 30″x40″ print quality – not easy to pick the difference!!!

Sunday, June 3rd, 2012

Last weekend I attended the Digital Show in Melbourne where Olympus had a very prominent stand showing off their fantastic new Olympus OM-D E-M5 Micro Four Thirds camera.

To prove a point they invited pro photographers along to shoot a model in studio conditions with their full frame dSLR and processed these RAW shots and printed to 30″ x 40″ prints.

These prints were compared with 30″ x 40″ prints shot at the same time from the E-M5 out of camera jpegs using the 12-50mm lens.

I must say, I really hard a very hard time telling which was the full frame dSLR shots, the prints were that close in quality!

And this is comparing prints from RAW files shot with Canon 5D Mark II and Nikon D700 with pro lenses to the E-M5 with a consumer kit lens!

Of course, these conditions were not showing off the main advantage of full frame dSLRs over the E-M5 such as ultra shallow depth of field but it was a very surprising comparison nevertheless!

I just wish I took a few shots of the side-by-side print comparisons!

See a quick video on the contest hosted at cnet.com.

Shallow depth of field in photography – a double edged sword

Friday, June 1st, 2012

Back in the old film days, many photographers were plagued by the problem of not getting enough depth of field for the light on their subject and the slow film speeds of the day and no image stabilisation to allow longer shutter speeds.

Depth of field issues is one of the reasons expensive tilt-shift lenses were designed so that landscape photographers even with their cameras mounted on tripods so they could use f/16 apertures could get their whole image acceptably sharp and detailed from foreground to background.

An out of focus foreground or background in a documentary landscape can be extremely annoying for the viewer.

On the other hand if your subject is not the scenery but a discrete subject, then shallow depth of field can be used brilliantly to separate your subject from the otherwise distracting background and make them “pop” – a favorite technique of the romanticists out there.

The excitement over the great image quality and versatility of the awesome new Olympus OM-D E-M5 Micro Four Thirds camera has yet again ignited debate that as great as it is, it can’t ever achieve the shallow DOF of a full frame dSLR even though for many other purposes most people would not be able to tell the difference between a 30″ x 40″ print from either camera.

I decided to post this blog based on some recent experiences which demonstrate the double edged sword of shallow DOF – as much as I love it as a tool, it can easily work against you.

First, let’s address the technical issue of DOF.

A full frame dSLR sensor size will always give you more control over depth of field than a smaller sensor camera
in that one can choose to go deep DOF by closing aperture down further than a small sensor camera before diffraction limitations start destroying your image resolution, and one can usually go shallower DOF by choosing a wider aperture lens for a given field of view.

The advantages of full frame dSLR for shallow DOF are particularly the case for subjects taken at a distance of more than 1-2m with a wide to standard field of view lens.

For macrophotography, close up photography and telephoto photography, Micro Four Thirds will generally be able to deliver you as shallow a DOF as you need as long as you have a reasonable aperture lens.

To get the same DOF and field of view on a Micro Four Thirds camera as a full frame dSLR you need to use a lens of focal length AND aperture half that used on a full frame dSLR.

So a 24mm f/1.4 lens of a full frame camera would require a 12mm f/0.7 lens on Micro Four Thirds and that is not going to happen any time soon although there is a 17mm f/0.95 lens.

Likewise a 50mm f/1.2 lens on a full frame would require a 25mm f/0.6 and the closest we will get is a f/0.95, while most of us will settle for the lovely Panasonic 25mm f/1.4.

The Canon 85mm f/1.2 lens on a full frame would require a 43mm f/0.6 lens and again, the closest we can expect is a f/0.95 lens around that field of view range.

The 135mm f/2.0 lens on a full frame lens would require a 67mm f/1.0 lens to match it.

The 200mm f/2.8 lens on a full frame would require a 100mm f/1.4 lens and the closest we will have is the 85mm f/1.2, 85mm f/1.4, or if you need AF, the 75mm f/1.8.

So you get the picture if you place a super expensive wide aperture lens on a full frame dSLR you will nearly always be able to get more DOF control than when using a cropped sensor camera – that’s just the way it is.

BUT, this capability has it’s downsides.

1. you now have to think about your subject very carefully and decide how much DOF you need to capture it well, and thus exactly which aperture for the given lens and subject distance.

2. if you are forced to use wide aperture such as hand held shots at night, or wide aperture sports shots at fast shutter speeds, you may be plagued with the age old problem of not enough DOF and most viewers hate a blurry subject!

Let me demonstrate each of these from my own recent experience.

1st a couple of potentially stuffed up shots.

A wedding shot with a pro dSLR (almost full frame Canon 1D Mark III 1.3x crop sensor) combined with my favorite lens for this camera, the 135mm f/2.0 L lens.

Now as I have mentioned before, using the amazingly cheap Rokinon/Samyang 85mm f/1.4 on a Micro Four Thirds camera yields almost identical imagery (field of view, DOF and bokeh) as this combination at a quarter the weight, size and price, but that is another story – see here for related posts of this lens:

I generally shoot half body shots with this lens at f/2.5-f/2.8 to get sufficient DOF for my subject, so for this couple shot, I lazily just closed the aperture down a bit more to f/3.2 to give me a touch more DOF without making the background too distracting.

Unfortunately, I failed to chimp the image after the shot was taken to carefully check my DOF (it didn’t help that the Canon did not have an EVF to do this and my reading glasses were left in the car!).

Needless to say, the bride looks beautiful and sharp, but the groom is well out of focus, and I had to salvage it a bit by turning it into a romantic looking shot – luckily I was not the official photographer!


Canon example

Ah, yes, what a crappy photographer I can be sometimes! But surely I can’t get too shallow a DOF using the new Olympus OM-D E-M5 camera with its cropped sensor…

oh yes I can…..this is the 1st shot I took using the Olympus mZD 45mm f/1.8 lens playing around with the fun touch the screen on the subject and almost instant AF and shutter release:


E-M5 example

OK, it is a lovely candid shot of my mischievous kitten but closer inspection will reveal that her eyes are incredibly sharp even with this lens at f/1.8, but her nose is well out of focus – a big mistake in portrait photography – always aim to get tip of nose to ear in focus unless you are aiming for special effects like with my tilt-shift lens where one can change the plane of focus such as in the glamour portrait below:


tilt-shift example

 In summary, a cropped sensor camera will not replace the capability of ultra shallow DOF of a full frame dSLR, but a camera such as the Olympus E-M5 when teamed up with wide aperture lenses opens up new avenues for hand held low light photography whilst still maintaining an adequate DOF for your subject.

For most of us the Micro Four Thirds system when teamed with its lovely wide aperture lenses such as the 12mm f/2.0, 25mm f/1.4, 45mm f/1.8 and 75mm f/1.8 will address our shallow DOF as much as we need and for those who want to explore more shallow DOF, then they can enjoy the manual focus f/0.95 lenses, or even use the Canon 85mm f/1.2 and have them all image stabilised.