Japan – Tokyo’s pre-war buildings in Yanaka Ginza

Written by Gary on May 27th, 2025

I had not realised that before Hiroshima bombing in World War II, the US carpet bombed a large area of Tokyo and thus there are very few areas of pre-war authentic buildings. One of them we found in the suburb of Yanaka

The streetscape is now mainly converted to tourism with its many shops, coffee outlets and small bars

All photos on this blog post taken with Samsung phone.

Yanaka

Yanaka

This shop was closed at the time of this pic, but later was open and very busy but photos not allowed then

Yanaka

Yanaka

Yanaka

Not sure which part of this image refers to vegan ramen

Yanaka

Yanaka

Yanaka

Yanaka

A small quaint bar

Yanaka

the adjacent cemetery and temples

Yanaka

Yanaka

Yanaka

Yanaka

Yanaka

 

Japan – Shinjuku, Tokyo

Written by Gary on May 27th, 2025

Shinjuku is an inner suburb of Tokyo and is filled with major shopping centres which have grown up around the train station as is the case in many Japanese urban areas, as well as night life bars which adds to its interest.
The hotel used in “Lost in Translation” is also in Shinjuku but is currently closed due to major renovations.

It tends to rain a bit in Tokyo, so the ubiquitous clear plastic umbrella is extremely common, and makes a lot of sense as it allows you to see where you are going when angled down into the wind.

All photos on this blog post taken with Samsung phone.

Shinjuku

Umbrella locks outside hotels – ensure you remember which number is yours and your PIN

Shinjuku

Shinjuku

The Skin Milk satchets are NOT skinny milk for your tea as I found out!

Shinjuku

Eating out is always a fascinating experience for us Westies in Japan – but not sure this is the menu I was after!

Shinjuku

Not sure which part of the body this bone is from but it tasted great!

Shinjuku

Shinjuku

The Golden-Gai night club area at night is interesting and you best avoid the Nigerians who try to entice you into a club – there are many reports of your “free” drinks being spiked and when you wake up in the morning, you will find many thousands of dollars swiped from your credit card

Most of the other bars are quite small with only spaces for perhaps 6 patrons, so they are hard to get into

Shinjuku

Shinjuku

Shinjuku

Shinjuku

Shinjuku

Shinjuku

 

Japan – Kyoto’s Nishiki market

Written by Gary on May 27th, 2025

A visit to the Nishiki market and associated shopping district is a must when exploring Kyoto.
The many seafood shops selling their wares is a very interesting walk.

All photos on this blog post taken with Samsung phone (it was quite crowded there).

Kyoto market

Kyoto market

Kyoto market

Kyoto market

Kyoto market

You want shrimp cooked, let me get my butane blowtorch out – not quite like an Aussie shrimps on a barbie!

Kyoto market

Kyoto market

Kyoto market

Kyoto market

These oysters were massive! I believe they take at least 4 years to get to this size.

Kyoto market

Kyoto market

Kyoto market

Roasting chestnuts

Kyoto market

Kyoto market

“I am not an architect”

 

Japan – Reflections on a life lived

Written by Gary on May 23rd, 2025

Our brief visit to Japan was very enlightening. It was clear the Japanese people are a proud and apparently introverted people. Proud of their unique culture but still wary of the non-Japanese tourists. They have suffered enormously through wars and natural disasters given they live in one of the most disaster-prone regions of the world which presumably contributes to their communal spirit.

I had not realised that before the hydrogen bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki by the US in August 1945, the US had carpet bombed Tokyo destroying much of the city. Very little of pre-WWII buildings are still present in Tokyo. The high civilian casualties of these events must have left enormous generational suffering and traumas.

A critical component of Japanese culture is the importance of not embarassing someone – indeed, the law of defamation even holds in Japan if what is claimed is true but it has caused public embarassment – this law may not apply to internal family dynamics where frustrations of life and living may play out unconstrained

The following is a candid photo I took as I walked through the gardens near Shinjuku, Tokyo and this man caught my eye. I can’t even imagine what this man and his family may have gone through, and yet, he is a survivor, not only of the war, but also of Japan’s high suicide rate which hides what casual tourists do not see, and perhaps much stems from their underlying culture – the good and the bad.

reflecting on life

There seems to be an underlying sadness in his face

As he gazes across the sunny Spring fields of yet another Golden week what memories does it trigger?

Is it those of past desires and unrequited love?

What of seeing children playing in the gardens?

Is it grief and sorrow from his losses?

Does it trigger PTSD from the distant past of his family yelling at him for his perceived failings despite his continuous efforts to provide security for them? Perhaps everywhere he looks, reminds him of what he could have done better.

Despite all of these he may feel content that as his life is nearing its end, he has inner peace of knowing he has tried hard, that it is OK not to have been perfect (the Japanese concept of wasi-sabi) and that he has had gaman – the Japanese concept of being patient and perservering through difficulties.

And in the end, he is still alone as he has probably been in reality much of his life, but he can enjoy the rich benefits of still being able to get out into nature and enjoy Shinrin-yoku, or “forest bathing” which is an important part of de-stressing in Japanese culture.

I would have loved to have had a long chat with him – but alas I couldn’t

 

Japan – Kyoto

Written by Gary on May 23rd, 2025

Kyoto is a major city to the south west of Tokyo, and thankfully was saved from being bombed by the US in World War II – largely due to respect for its aesthetics that deserved to be preserved.
Here is a selection of images from my meanderings to give you a taste of Kyoto in Spring after cherry blossom season.

Kyoto

Kyoto

Kyoto

Kyoto

The uniquitous vending machines found all over Japan

Kyoto

Kyoto

Kyoto

Old timber wall

Kyoto

Dogs taking a lady for a hike

Kyoto

Kyoto

Burnt charcoal timber wall

Kyoto

All photos above taken with Olympus OMD E-M1 Mark III with Olympus mZD 75mm f/1.8 lens, photos below in this post, with a Samsung phone

Kyoto

Kyoto station diagram of Kyoto with station in foreground right, looking north

Kyoto

At Kyoto station, rather brutalist architecture

Kyoto

Going for a run up the stairs at Kyoto station

Kyoto

Katsura River, Kyoto

 

Japan – Kyoto Nijō Castle

Written by Gary on May 23rd, 2025

This fortified 17th century castle with dual motes is in the heart of Kyoto and an easy walk from the main shopping area.
In 1601, Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate, ordered all the feudal lords in western Japan to contribute to the construction of Nijō Castle, which was completed during the reign of his grandson Tokugawa Iemitsu in 1626.

Kyoto castle

Kyoto castle

Kyoto castle

Kyoto castle

Kyoto castle

Steel gates

Kyoto castle

Kyoto castle

Photos above taken with Olympus OMD EM-1 III with Olympus 75mm f/1.8 lens, those below in this post taken with Samsung phone

Kyoto castle

Kyoto castle

Panoramic view from the Keep

Kyoto castle

Kyoto castle

Simulated wall decorations inside the castle rooms – originals are kept elsewhere

Kyoto castle

Kyoto castle

Kyoto castle

Kyoto castle

a bit of post-processing fun

 

Japan – Kyoto – Ohara shrines and gardens

Written by Gary on May 23rd, 2025

There are a multitude of shrines and gardens in and around Kyoto. One can catch a bus to the Ohara area in the mountains to the north of Kyoto for a lovely day of exploring the shrines and gardens – make sure you don’t miss the last bus back to Kyoto though – and it will be standing room only!

Kyoto Ohara

Kyoto Ohara

Lovely patterns in the bark of a tree made by an insect I believe

Kyoto Ohara

Kyoto Ohara

This is at Hosen-in I think

Kyoto Ohara

Kyoto Ohara

Kyoto Ohara

Tourist with a Go Pro taking videos of another tourist (me) coming out of Hosen-in

Kyoto Ohara

Kyoto Ohara

Kyoto Ohara

Kyoto Ohara

Artwork

Kyoto Ohara

Kyoto Ohara

Shōrin-in temple and gardens

Kyoto Ohara

Kyoto Ohara

Kyoto Ohara

Kyoto Ohara

Kyoto Ohara

Prayers left as paper ribbons – I believe these are called ofuda

Kyoto Ohara

Kyoto Ohara

Kyoto Ohara

another anonymous tourist taking a break

Kyoto Ohara

Kyoto Ohara

Inspecting the ofuda?

Kyoto Ohara

and if you are patient you can get a pic without people in it

Kyoto Ohara

Tourist dressing up in kimodo to have selfies taken in the temple

Kyoto Ohara

At least these young ladies respected the culture unlike a couple of other young ladies who decided it would be okay to do a very revealing fashion shoot in this sacred space and were promptly asked to leave

All photos taken with Olympus OMD E-M1 Mark III with Olympus mZD 75mm f/1.8 lens, those below in this post taken with Samsung phone

Kyoto Ohara

Kyoto Ohara

Kyoto Ohara

Ohara onsen bathing house – unfortunately booked out

Kyoto Ohara

 

Japan Nakasendo Trail – Day 1 – Narai to Suhara via Torii Pass

Written by Gary on May 20th, 2025

This lovely hiking trail was hiked in Golden Week 2025 – the last week of April.

Much of the trail can be done in sections with the ability to catch a train to bypass sections you don’t wish to hike. We chose 3 sections to hike, however, there are many more you could explore. Late April, early May was perfect weather for the hike. Obviously in Winter, the hike is not really feasible as it will be covered in deep snow, and in Summer it could be too hot, humid and wet with potentially disease carrying mosquitoes. The only mosquitoes we met with were near the rice paddies in Magome-juku and thus although long pants were recommended, shorts were fine for the time we were on this hike, but you do need rain gear, hat, jumper, umbrella, suntan lotion, track pants or long pants for evenings at overnight accommodations, and water.

We caught a train from Tokyo to Narai which is a historic tourist-oriented post town from the Samarai – Shojun era of the 17th century when the Shojuns ordered the Samarai and their leaders from Kyoto to walk to Edo (now Tokyo) via this trail in the Japanese highlands.

Mt Fuji from our train from Tokyo to Narai

Mt Fuji from our train from Tokyo to Narai (power lines have been removed in editing)

We had decided to start our trail hike in reverse direction to the usual direction and take on the 1250m elevation Torii Pass on the first day with our backpacks full of 3 days gear – but no camping gear as we had booked accommodation for each night of our hike.

Despite being in Golden Week of public holidays in Japan and being late for the cherry blossom season, we were delighted to see very few tourists on our hike and were treated to some beautiful cheery blossoms as well as a wide range of Spring flowers. The weather was fantastic apart from some light rain periods on the first day of our hike.

Narai

Narai-juku was one of the post towns on the Nakasendo highway officially ruled by the Edo Shogunate and is situated exactly between Edo and Kyoto. It retains a historical row of Edo period houses along the street. The buildings are unique in that the second floor overhangs the first (ground floor), with eaves sloping further to overhang the entire building. Originally the roofs were wooden slats held down by rocks but now are steel sheets.

Narai-juku

Narai-juku

Narai-juku

Narai-juku

Narai-juku

Narai-juku

Torii Pass hike

The Torii Pass was considered one of the most difficult ones to go through on the Nakasendo highway. Narai-juku prospered as travelers rested and stayed there in order to prepare for the crossing of the Pass.

Torii Pass hike

The start of our hiking trail

Torii Pass hike

We soon had gained some elevation over-looking Narai-juku

Torii Pass hike

Guess we were supposed to leave money to ensure our safe passage?

Torii Pass hike

the trail up, taken with Samsung phone

Torii Pass hike

No one warned us about the black bears – there was strong advice to ring the bells loudly to scare off any bears on the trail – we dutifully did so along the trail and thankfully did not see any bears.

Torii Pass hike

Traditional toilet near the top of the Torii Pass – we passed on that one as it did not come with instructions

Torii Pass hike

Map near the top

Torii Pass hike

Not sure the water is potable – taken with Samsung phone

Torii Pass hike

Sorry more ascent to go yet!

Torii Pass hike

Lost in translation – no online Google translate here

Torii Pass hike

Slight misprint on the sign needed to be corrected apparently

Torii Pass hike

Ontakejinja Shrine near the top of Torri Pass

Torii Pass hike

Torii Pass hike

Torii Pass hike

Torii Pass hike

Torii Pass hike

Torii Pass hike

wild magnolias at 1100m elevation

Torii Pass hike

Torii Pass hike

Views of our destination, Yabuhara in the rain

Torii Pass hike

Final descent trail

Yabuhara

Yabuhara

Yabuhara

Practically the only graffiti seen in our whole trip in Japan

Yabuhara

Yabuhara

Spring growth on the bonsai maple

Yabuhara

Yabuhara

Yabuhara hair dresser salon

Yabuhara

After hiking down to Yabuhara, we caught a train from there to Suhara where we had booked accommodation for the night

All photos taken with Olympus OMD EM1 III with 75mm f/1.8 (or Samsung phone if specified as such)

 

Japan Nakasendo Trail – Day 2 – Suhara to Nagiso

Written by Gary on May 20th, 2025

After our hike over Torii Pass we had stayed the night in Suhara and decided to catch a train to Okuwa to shorten our hike to Nagiso. Unfortunately, we probably missed the more picturesque part of this hike with its views back to snow capped mountains and had to make do with more limited views. Much of this hike was in full sun beside a busy road with a wide boulder-strewn river to our right and thus was not as enjoyable as our first day’s hike through remote forests

Suhara

Suhara village sake barrels

sake barrels

Suhara village accommodation

Our accommodation in Suhara – an awesome old house – photo taken with Samsung phone

Suhara village

Suhara village

Suhara village railway station

Steps up the railway station

Okuwa

Okuwa village

Okuwa village

Okuwa village

Okuwa village

Okuwa village

Okuwa village

Okuwa village

Lovely cute coffee shop was the only place open that day and was mainly catering to the occasional marathon runner coming through but he made great coffee and the buttered chicken curry was great too.

Okuwa village

Okuwa to Nagiso

Okuwa to Nagiso

Okuwa to Nagiso

The town is almost deserted but the culture of wearing face masks continues

Okuwa to Nagiso

Okuwa to Nagiso

Do not litter sign – there is almost no litter to be seen anywhere in Japan!

Okuwa to Nagiso

Trail – taken with Samsung

Okuwa to Nagiso

Temple along the trail – taken with Samsung

Okuwa to Nagiso

Kiso River which we followed along the trail – taken with Samsung

Okuwa to Nagiso

A rural shed on the trail

Okuwa to Nagiso

Nagiso

Nagiso is a small post town on a river which is a main transport hub, connecting the railway from the north with the bus service to Magome and beyond. There is a nice large bridge, some gardens and shrines, as well as a small supermarket and a 7 Eleven in case you need cash out. There is also a luggage transfer service available here and we stayed at the very nice MountainInn.

Nagiso

Nagiso

Nagiso

Higashiyama Shrine, Nagiso

Nagiso

Nagiso

Nagiso

Nagiso

Nagiso

Pedestrian crossing

Nagiso

Nagiso – taken with Samsung

Nagiso

Nagiso bridge – taken with Samsung

Nagiso

Nagiso – taken with Samsung

Nagiso

Nagiso bridge – taken with Samsung

Nagiso

Nagiso – taken with Samsung

All photos taken with Olympus OMD EM1 III with 75mm f/1.8 (or Samsung phone if specified as such)

NB. the powerlines were removed in editing of some of these images

 

Japan Nakasendo Trail – Day 3 Nagiso to Magome-juku via Tsumagu-juku and Magome Pass

Written by Gary on May 20th, 2025

Our last day of hiking the Nakasendo Trail was from Nagiso to Magome-juku via the historic and picturesque post town of Tsumagu-juku and then up the 6km ascent to Magome Pass and then down 2km or so descent to the also picturesque village of Magome-juku.

For this section, we decided to cheat a bit as it was sunny weather, so we arranged for our backpacks to be transferred to Magome-juku Information Centre at a cost of about $AU20 per bag, and we caught the bus from Nagiso to Tsumagu-juku so we skipped the weeping cherry tree section of the walk.

Tsumagu-juku

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village taken with Samsung phone

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village temple taken with Samsung phone

Tsumagu village

1st human drawn cart in Japan c150yrs ago – taken with Samsung phone

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village taken with Samsung phone

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village taken with Samsung phone

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village taken with Samsung phone

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village taken with Samsung phone

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village wisteria taken with Samsung phone

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village taken with Samsung phone

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village

Vase

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village tailor

Local tailor showing off his hand made clothing

Tsumagu village

Many houses and buildings had these old indoor open fireplaces for cooking and boiling water – although apparently no longer in use

Tsumagu village mud wall

mud wall detail

Tsumagu village local with his dog

Local man with his dog enjoying the attention

Tsumagu village crafts

Local crafts

Tsumagu village crafts

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village

Tsumagu village

The trail from Tsumagu-juku to Magome-Juku via Magome Pass

Nakasendo trail

Taken with Samsung phone

Nakasendo trail

Nakasendo trail

Nakasendo trail

Wisteria – this is very commonly seen growing wild amongst the forest trees in the region

Nakasendo trail

Nakasendo trail

Nakasendo trail

Nakasendo trail

Cherry blossoms growing wild in the forests

Nakasendo trail

Nakasendo trail - moss on trees

Moss-like growths hanging from a tree with dangling white flowers growing wild in the forest

Nakasendo trail

Nakasendo trail

Nakasendo trail

Bridge crossing and cascading stream on our ascent – Taken with Samsung phone

Nakasendo trail

Nakasendo trail

Even though we were late for the official cherry blossom season, they were still in full bloom near the top of Magome Pass

Nakasendo trail

Taken with Samsung phone

Nakasendo trail

Taken with Samsung phone

Nakasendo trail

Nakasendo trail local who made green tea for hikers near top of Magome Pass

The local man who made green tea for hikers near top of Magome Pass

Nakasendo trail

Nakasendo trail

Nakasendo trail tulips as we approached Magome

Nakasendo trail - Magome chainsaw sculptor

Magome chainsaw sculptor and his gardens

Nakasendo trail - Magome chainsaw sculptor

Nakasendo trail - Magome chainsaw sculptor

Nakasendo trail - Magome chainsaw sculptor's gardens

Nakasendo trail - Magome chainsaw sculptor's gardens

Nakasendo trail - Magome rain drain

rain drain “pipe” common in Japan

Nakasendo trail - Magome

Nakasendo trail

Coming into Magome-juku – Panorama taken with Samsung phone

All photos taken with Olympus OMD EM1 III with 75mm f/1.8 (or Samsung phone if specified as such)