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wood stoves for camping

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  • I don't sell any of these nor do I receive any remuneration if you buy them, and I have not personally reviewed all of them, they are listed here to give you perspective


  • these can be useful as they can provide a safer option than camp fires and fire restrictions with less environmental impacts and less wood consumption while providing a convenient heat source, hot water source and cooking options even if it gets very windy
  • these are in effect slow combustion wood stoves similar to what households had until the 1970's, but in smaller, portable camping form.
  • they are different design to the solid fuel “kettle” “Weber” barbecues
  • compact, light stainless steel or titanium wood stoves are fantastic and a game changer for autumn/winter/spring camping - even in Australia!
    • they are best at providing cooking and water boiling options and warmth to dry out your wet gear in rainy periods and give you warmth in tents - BUT they are NOT for keeping you warm while you sleep!
  • Before you rush out and buy a wood stove be aware that you really do need to like making fires and managing all the issues and risks that go with that!
    • Maintaining the right temperature fire does need work and the correct type and size of wood - just buy dry seasoned hardwood kindling if in doubt!
    • Too low as with wet wood or wood that is too big and you get a LOT of smoke, poor combustion, lots of creosote to block your chimney
    • Too hot as with too much wood, too much air, excessively dry wood or paper (above 370degC for stainless steel) and you can destroy the stove or cause a chimney fire if there is a lot of creosote in the chimney - you need to clean the flue
    • They should be put out prior to sleeping but if used for survival heat, you will need to wake up every 1-2hrs to add more wood - but don't make it too hot else you will have dramatic temperature changes as it burns out and you will feel really cold - having it in a dome or large tunnel tent reduces the build up of high temperatures near the top half which you get in tipi tents
    • stainless steel stoves do not put out a lot of heat in the cold open spaces
      • you generally need to be within 1-2 feet to feel the heat - these stoves are best for cooking and heating water but can be used inside to make a hot tent with care
      • although manufacturers often stipulate flammable materials must be at least 1.2m away from the stove and less than 1.5m above the stove, for less flammable materials most experienced hot tent campers reduce this to 30cm or so (12“) and indeed you can hang wet clothes near the stove, and the tent fabric can be closer than 1m - just ensure the wind does not blow it onto the stove or chimney
    • if winds are forecast you should put guy lines onto top of chimney BUT these should NOT be on high tension as this may warp the base of the chimney when it is hot and more malleable.

wood stove alternatives to open fires

  • these are much less likely to cause nearby damage from embers
  • are safer to use during Fire Danger Periods than an open fire as much less likely to cause a bushfire
  • function much better in windy conditions (may need guy ropes to the chimney) - open camp fires MUST NOT be lit in windy conditions when wind is more than 10kph during a Fire Danger Period which may be declared from Oct-Apr in some areas in southern Australia such as Victoria 1)
  • use much less wood (they are slow combustion stoves with controllable air flows) and you do not need to find dry large logs - kindling size is adequate BUT it still must be dry and seasoned and not too large
  • much easier to light in the rain
  • you can wear your puffer jackets around the fire without worrying about holes from embers meting through
  • you are much less likely to get ash in your eyes or get sore eyes from the constant high level of direct eat and smoke
  • much better for the environment
  • but are best for 2-3 people and are NOT suited to larger groups and despite the tall chimney you will still get smokey - smoke tends to escape from door seals and top lid areas
  • a much better armageddon or back country survival option (as long as you are not hiking)!
  • Most stoves MUST be run within certain temperatures eg. 400-700degF or 200-370degC
    • too low causes creosote build up and risk of chimney fires - clean them regularly with a brush flue cleaner while wearing dust mask!
    • too high causes the stove to deform and any glass to break
      • if a stainless steel stove starts to glow pink it is getting TOO HOT
    • consider buying a magnetic stove flue thermometer which generally should be placed 18” above the start of the flue
    • DO NOT use paper or fuels not designed for the stove as these will make them too hot!
  • In general SOLID FUEL fires are NOT PERMITTED in some areas
    • NOT PERMITTED in Fire Danger Districts (most of Australia in summer) if winds are > 10kph
    • NOT PERMITTED on Total Fire Ban days
    • some Australian National Parks allow wood stoves IF they have a spark arrestor fitted
  • They MAY KILL via carbon monoxide poisoning or cause SERIOUS BURNS if not used correctly - READ THE INSTRUCTIONS

wood fired stoves with chimneys

  • other general warnings on usage:
    • chimney pipes need cleaning of soot and creosote to prevent chimney fires
      • creosote is a oily, sticky residue produced from incomplete combustion of oils in wood which combines with carbon to form soot in chimneys which may then cause chimney fires when there is a hot fire in the stove with the chimney air flow control open, in addition, a thick build-up of soot can reduce chimney air flows and thus creating a vicious cycle of more creosote build up
    • larger diameter chimney pipes may be hard for one person to pull apart
    • chimney is very hot (~200degC) and may melt nearby tarps, tents, etc - use special chimney accessory to reduce heat to below 100degC if placing chimney through a tent
    • general issues with use of wood fires such as access to wood, bushfire risk, carbon monoxide risk, burns risk
    • should not use cardboard or paper (other than a small amount to light the fire)
      • paper can burn quickly, which can cause balls of still-burning paper to float up into the chimney, and ignite creosote deposits
      • wrapping paper, magazines and newspaper inserts are known to give off toxic fumes when they are burned
    • don't burn clothing - smells bad, increases creosote and higher temperatures may damage stove or cause chimney fire
    • compared to hardwoods, soft woods tend to burn faster and put out more embers which increase risk of burning the tent so use dry seasoned hardwoods
    • must not use wet wood as may cause serious creosote which may damage your flue
    • must not use styrofoam, plastics, painted or treated wood, MDF or ocean driftwood as this may damage flue or firebox, and may release toxins
    • must not use coal or charcoal as these wood stoves are not designed to handle the higher heat that these fuels produce and damage to firebox or flue may result
    • never light your fire using accelerants like kerosene, gasoline, or lighter fluid in your fireplace as it could cause dangerous flare up and burns
    • temperature control much more difficult than gas stoves and may need to remove top lid plate to access flames for higher cooking temperatures
    • unless they are stainless steel they will rust rapidly (stainless steel takes on a nice copper patina colour)
  • accessories you should strongly consider buying
    • Burn Shield or similar burns first aid (can use glad wrap for larger burns)
    • a brush chimney flue cleaner (plus dust masks)
    • a small axe for kindling
    • fire starters and matches
    • heat resistant long gloves (eg. Kevlar welding gloves)
    • you can get magnetic stove flue thermometers but these won't attach to stainless steel
    • container for the ash such as aluminium cooking tray (leave no trace)
    • 10L water container (with water) to extinguish and fires that may escape the stove
    • if using INSIDE a suitable tent then there are a LOT of additional accessories REQUIRED for safety (see below under hot tent).
  • other accessories to consider:
    • fire blanket in case someone's clothes catches fire
    • fire extinguisher
    • coffee percolator / kettle such as:
    • kettle:
    • heat protector for floor under the stove or for nearby items (eg. non-canvas tents) which will not tolerate direct heat
      • avoid fibreglass ones unless silicone coated
      • consider welders chrome leather
      • options at home outdoors on deckings include a ceramic hearth pad
    • bucket or tub for 10-15L water (putting out fires, holding warmed water for washing up etc):
      • 2-3L boiling water added to 7-8L ambient water gives nice 10L of warm shower water if you have a shower pump system
      • Companion Pop Up Bucket with Lid BCF $AU55
      • Companion Pop Up Tub 15L BCF $AU79
      • Wanderer 4 Piece Pop Up Laundry Set
        • 37L laundry tub; 9.5L bucket; storage basket; basin and collapsible peg airer BCF $139

Factors to consider in stove choice

  • external air intake pipe or not
    • an external air intake allows use in an enclosed environment as it draws oxygen from outside and is essentially a closed system inside
    • the downside is they are more bulky and you need to also take the air intake ducting, but they are the safest to use
  • size, weight and portability
    • this is an important factor for most
    • for hikers, they will want to consider a flat fold light 0.6-1mm thick titanium stove
      • you may need to learn how to roll up a titanium chimney!
      • it will also cool down even faster than stainless steel models
      • flat fold versions can have the parts divided up to be carried by more than one hiker to distribute weight
      • some can be carried easily in backpacks and filled with gear (but need to protect from ash)
    • for most other campers and medium or large 3-4mm thick stainless steel (or a more expensive titanium) stove will work best for them:
      • stainless steel cools down relatively fast so you can pack up more readily than cast iron and is much lighter
      • stainless steel is easier to cook on than titanium as it has less hot spots and retains heat better than titanium
      • a medium stove may be able to be transported on floor of rear seat of a car whereas a large one would need more space
      • a large stove has significant advantages of:
        • less wood chopping as can fit longer wood in
        • less often refueling of the stove
        • larger cooking surface for more campers
        • more heat output which may be important for broader roofed dome tents (not usually important for tipis as they will generally get quite hold even with a small stove)
      • a large stove may have less placement options for a smaller tent though and it may be more restrictive given the amount of space it may take up
  • side window or no side window
    • a side window provides nice aesthetics and gives you better visibility of the state of the fire without opening the door
    • but more importantly, a glass window transmits far more heat out than a metal surface does as infrared light can pass through the glass hence ideally you set up the stove with the glass facing you - glass on both sides gives you more flexibility in stove placement for this consideration
    • some stoves allow you to swap which side the window is on which can be handy
    • some metal stove walls are double panel which means even less radiant heat from that side - great if that side faces and is near the tent fabric which you don't want to get overly hot
  • false bottom (ash grill) or not
    • generally these small stoves used with dry seasoned wood do not need false bottoms
    • false bottoms are the grills which your wood sits on and allows more air flow and ash to drop through and thus they can burn hotter and faster so you may need to damper these down a bit
  • height of stove
    • if you are lying close to the ground, a lower stove will warm you better
    • in very cold areas, a lower stove will also reduce the height of the frost ring around the bottom part of your tent but the height of the frost ring is also dependent upon the size of the stove for the size of the tent and whether or not there are glass windows
    • folding the legs of the stove can give you better heat when lying down however, you cannot sit it on a fire mat as this will scorch and perhaps give off fumes - you will need to sit it on rocks and non-flammable ground
  • chimney pipe diameter and pipe oven size
    • a pipe oven is a fantastic accessory for baking small trays of food - albeit a bit bulky to transport
    • for Winnerwell pipe ovens for their stainless steel stoves, their size, weight and internal capacity increases as the stove's pipe diameter increases
    • not available for titanium stoves as far as I am aware
Winnerwell pipe oven chimney diameter weight length width height interior baking size
2.1“ (small stoves) not available
2.5” (medium stoves) 3.9kg 242mm 9.5“ 220mm 8.7” 220mm 8.7“ 6” x 6“
3” (medium air stoves) 4.4kg 288mm 11.3“ 240mm 9.4” 240mm 9.4“ 6.2” x 6.2“
3.5” (large and large air stoves) 6kg 300mm 11.8“ 280mm 11” 280mm 11“ 7.5” x 7.5“

titanium ultralight, compact wood stoves

  • Winnerwell Fastfold Titanium Camping Stove
    • 373 L x 255 W x 177 H with 2.68m rolled chimney pipe
    • folded: 395 L x 231 W 188 H
    • Stove body can also function as an ultralight firepan by removing top of the stove
    • no windows only front ventilation slits
    • 2kg
    • $AU679
    • you also should get a Winnerwell Titanium Heat Protector for M/L nested pipe which is ~$AU170 and will make using the stove in a tent safer
  • NB. roll up titanium chimneys can break - see - I suspect his chimney guy ropes were too tight so when the tent moved in the wind it caused the chimney at the stove jack to bend while it was hot and vulnerable

stainless steel wood stoves with external air intakes for enclosed tents

  • these stoves have an external air intake which means much safer when used inside more closed environments as the stove is essentially a closed system drawing air from a pipe which should be placed outside the tent, and in this way it will not consume oxygen which may be an issue in a smaller enclosed tent, and should not release carbon monoxide into the tent in any appreciable quantities - but you should still use a carbon monoxide alarm!
  • a typical stove can consume between 10 to 20 cubic meters of combustion air every hour and an average airtight 4-person tent has a volume of air around 30 to 40 cubic meters.
  • Winnerwell external air intake stoves

stainless steel wood stoves without external air intakes

steel or powder-coated wood stoves

  • Ozpig Big Pig Cooker & Heater
    • Heavy-duty steel body; open top design that’s removable for cooking directly on the fire;
    • packs to 73L x 49W x 45H cm; 41kg!!!
    • $AU749
  • Ozpig Cooker Heater Series 2
    • front loading barrel type steel stove
    • packs to 41.5L x 36.5W x 41H cm 17kg
    • $AU299-370
  • Kings Premium Camp Oven Stove
  • Oztrail Outback Cooker
    • pot belly stove style with tiny front glass window; 164 H x 44 W x 42 D cm; cast iron grill plates;
    • need to bolt on the angled flue;
    • removable stainless steel legs & 4 piece stainless steel chimney (with dodgy spark arrester but no rain shield);
    • needs heat resistant gloves to operate vents, etc.
    • 17.4kg; packs to 48 x 39 x 36cm
    • 2020 model but ? discontinued
  • Wooshka Wood Fired Outdoor Stove
    • 24kg! packs to 545x300x330mm; heavy duty steel;
    • optional hot water boiler, flue oven and motorised rotisserie set
  • Blue Bohemian BT-01 tent wood stove

wood pellet feeder stoves

  • these have a feeder bin to provide longer burns using wood pellets as fuel
  • Ooni Fyra Portable Outdoor Wood Pellet Pizza Oven UU-P0AD00
    • $AU480; 10kg; 576x142x394mm; wood pellets feed into rear hopper;
  • SENSEMAKE Camping Pellet Stove
    • similar to a Winnerwell Nomad stove but has option of using a wood pellet feeder which sits above the stove and 4kg allows 5-7 hours of burning, or one can just use usual kindling wood without the feeder attached
    • smoke may emanate from top of the feeder creating increased CO risks
    • stainless steel chimney flue;
    • ?carbon or powder coated steel firebox
  • Tryhomy Fire Wood Heater Pellet Stove

wood/charcoal pit roasters

  • these usually have a rotisserie which will either be battery operated or require AC power
  • examples:
    • Jumbuck 'Novo' Small Charcoal Spit Roaster - Battery (15kg roast limit) $AU85 8kg

the stove inside a tent option - the "hot tent"

Wood for your stove in Australia

  • YOU MUST use dry seasoned wood:
    • freshly cut wood should sit in a sheltered space where air can move through it for at least six months before use
  • Bunnings sell a variety of types of firewood and kindling HOWEVER they seem to get poor reviews - hard to light, often damp
    • however, HotShots Kindling seem OK if you get the correct one:
      • Hot Shots sell two types of kindling. The dressed timber offcuts (pale timber) are excellent. The hardwood kindling (heavier, rougher and not dressed) is extremely difficult to ignite, is not seasoned.

Stove maintenance

  • burn in the stove once before using inside a tent or cooking with it to remove any oils, etc in manufacture
  • ensure correct set up well away from flammable items
    • consider guy ropes to chimney if strong winds are a possibility
  • ensure you have dry seasoned wood - don't use anything else except as a starter
  • get the fire to operating temp of 200-370degC as soon as possible and maintain it
  • when fire cools down enough:
    • clean glass with damp cloth perhaps with some ash as an abrasive to remove creosote residue (although this will generally burn off on next fire)
    • disconnect flue pipes to avoid them sticking with creosote and then use brush with dust mask etc to clean soot out
    • empty ash out

Technical issues - creosote and chimney fires

  • creosote will ALWAYS form and line your chimney with potential to block it or cause a chimney fire if not regularly cleaned
  • If there is a rapid build up (seen on your glass viewing pane) this is a sign that you are either using the wrong wood or are not operating your fire at a hot enough temperature (too little air)
  • creosote is also problematic when creosote glaze forms at stove pipe junctions - typically half way up the chimney and can make the pipes very hard to pull apart
  • clean the creosote off the glass viewing pane and inside of the fire with a soft damp cloth each time your fire dies down and your fire is cool enough to touch. The creosote comes off easily, particularly if the fire is warm but not hot
  • creosote forms when the stove temperature is below 120ºC (250ºF)
    • at low temperatures, a lot of smoke is produced and the smoke cools as it rises through the chimney, causing volatile organic compounds (VOCs), water, and carbon within the smoke to combine and form an oily black residue that we call “creosote”.
    • at temperatures below 120ºC creosote will condense on the surfaces of chimney flues. When the temperature gets below 60ºC the creosote deposit will be thick, sticky and similar to tar. This tends to trap carbon from smoke which dries and bakes inside pipes and flues.
  • 3 types of creosote
    • First degree creosote is mostly soot
      • it occurs naturally even with good combustion and can easily be removed from a chimney with a chimney brush. If you have run the stove at the correct temperature range (not too hot and not too cold), this is the only type you should have to manage.
      • this form apparently ignites at 230degC
    • Second degree creosote “glaze” appears as shiny black flakes containing hardened tar
      • if 1st degree creosote is allowed to layer with repeated cool temperature burns, eventually a second degree creosote can form “glaze”
      • These flakes are more difficult to remove than soot and will require more complicated equipment, and are a factor of chimney fires although the glaze form probably needs temperatures over 500degC to ignite.
      • they can be reduced by burning “creosote removing logs” which have chemicals that penetrates the creosote buildup and weakens it
    • third degree creosote, which will appear on the inside of your chimney as a thick coating of tar
      • This kind of creosote is flammable at high temperatures and will continue to buildup until it is cleaned off, creating a danger that will increase with every fire you make
      • Even 1/8 of an inch of third degree creosote can drastically increase a chimney’s fire hazard
      • The problem is that chimney can only withstand so much heat, and when creosote reaches its combustion point, the heat inside the chimney will exceed what it was built to take.
      • this is generally caused by burning unseasoned wood, poor airflow, a chimney that gets too cold, or all of the these factors.
  • creosote is actually quite flammable
    • when it does catch fire, the heat is very intense and can be far too hot for the chimney
  • creosote is irritant and toxic
    • wear a eye shield, dust mask, gloves and sleeves when cleaning it
    • in the old days chimney sweeps were at risk of certain cancers
    • breathing creosote fumes (smoke) can lead to irritation of the respiratory tract, which can cause coughing and shortness of breath
  • chimney fires
    • tend to occur if creosote build up is more than 1/8th“ thick and the temperature in the chimney gets high
    • these are very hot and are evidenced by:
      • loud crackling / popping/ roaring noise coming from the chimney
      • dense, thick smoke coming into the fireplace or out of the top of the chimney
      • flames or burning pieces of flaming creosote coming from the top of the chimney
      • strong, intensely hot smell

preventive creosote burn-off

  • many believe that one should occasionally over-fire the stove to 450degC (this will also will burn off the last fire’s embers) for 30-60minutes to burn out the creosote in parts not easily cleaned to reduce creosote build up
    • this should not be done if there is a large amount of creosote build up otherwise risks chimney fire
    • the chimney pipe closest to the stove tends to have thinner creosote, exposed to the hotter temperatures, which will often dry out so thoroughly it peels off in tiny shards like cornflakes, which fall back into the fire. This is often accompanied by a crackling sound in the pipe, and sparkles in the fire where the flakes land and ignite.
    • “If you make it a practice to have a hot morning fire after every all-night burn to send some heat up the flue, the liquid creosote that has formed overnight will dry out quickly and solidify in easy-to-remove granular form, not glaze. This practice also helps burn the overnight creosote condensation off the viewing window”
    • read the stove's instructions as this may risk excessive warping of a stainless steel stove or expansion and cracking of a cast iron stove

Technical issues - starting a fire

  • you need a spark or flame plus tinder or a fire starter material
  • most people use matches or a butane gas lighter
  • in the absence of these, then a flint can be used to generate a spark
    • a flint edge on steel (or rocks of pyrite) is the traditional method of creating a spark
    • ferrocerium “fire steel” was developed in the 20thC as a better method as it produces a higher temperature spark than steel and allowed a greater range of tinder to be used, and it can produce sparks even if wet and thus is used in survival kits as well as the flint in cigarette lighters

Technical issues - smoke, draft and chimneys

  • a fire needs 3 things to continue burning:
    • fuel
    • heat
    • oxygen
  • the oxygen is provided via the air flow “draft” going from the bottom vents over the fire and then up the chimney flue
    • the amount of draft is dependent upon:
      • the size of the air intake
        • the more open this damper is, the faster the fire will burn as more air is available - assuming the flue is able to exhaust it
      • the capacity of the exhaust flue to take air - the diameter of the flue (if it is occluded by creosote or by a damper, this capacity is reduced)
      • the pressure differential which is a result of hot air rising up the chimney - the taller the chimney the greater the differential can be obtained and the more draft is possible - up to the capacity of the chimney diameter
        • hot air rises as the air expands and becomes less dense so it floats upwards above more dense cooler air, the further it can rise up an enclosed pipe such as a chimney, the lower the pressure becomes behind it as the air is essentially being sucked up the chimney by the rising hot air. This can be further accentuated by Venturi effect of wind blowing across the top of the chimney in a near laminar flow reducing the air pressure at the top of the chimney and further sucking air up the chimney.
        • the stove temperature (too low a temp such as when starting a fire or using wet or unseasoned wood and there is not enough differential and the smoke will bellow into the tent)
        • for stoves in a house (including gas stoves), if the house is de-pressurised (closed windows and doors but exhaust fans, rangehood fans, etc in use) this will reduce the pressure differential
  • if the draft is too big for the capacity of the chimney to exhaust, smoke may bellow back through the vents and into the tent
  • for most larger stoves the minimum height from floor to top of chimney should be 15' (4.5m) - this is generally reduced for smaller camping wood stoves
  • draft can be measured
    • using a standard manometer to measure the inches of water column in the pipe

excessive smoke staying in the stove and bellowing out instead of going up the chimney

  • this is generally due to one or more of:
    • fire temperature too low due to:
      • wet wood, inadequate air flow (intake vent and flue damper not fully open)
    • chimney blocked with creosote
    • chimney flue damper closed too much
    • chimney not wide enough or not tall enough
    • wind turbulence over the chimney causing pulsating pressures and back-puffing esp. if chimney height is inadequate and there is no cowl to reduce this
      • local obstructions to the wind and even the top of the tent can create turbulence - hence the chimney should be as high above the tent top as possible
      • this is exacerbated by the air intake system being protected from the wind and a suction effect can be created by the wind on the intake vents - a common issue in windy conditions with tents as one tends to one the tent away from the wind side and this has lower pressures
    • chimney temperature too cold reducing pressure differential and causing back-draft
      • sub-zero temperature winds / rain / snow can significantly impact chimney temperature
      • if it is hotter inside the tent than the smoke at the top part of the chimney, then the smoke can back-draft into the tent as the tent will effectively now be the chimney!
    • if you are in a house - it could be due to closed de-pressurised house with exhaust fans running and sucking smoke back into the house

should you have an external air intake?

  • on the surface, it would seem a great idea to have a pipe coming from outside your tent to supply air to your wood stove so that it does not consume the hot air from within the tent
  • “A typical stove can consume between 10 to 20 cubic meters of combustion air every hour and an average airtight 4-person tent has a volume of air around 30 to 40 cubic meters, so it’s obvious that a stove operating in an airtight and draught-proof tent could quickly consume up the oxygen in the tent within 2.5 hours and thus present serious problems for the occupants”3)
  • however, use of an external air intake concept is possibly flawed
    • the direction of air flow is dependent upon pressure differentials and potentially dangerous backdraft may occur in certain situations as outlined above, particularly if the wind direction is coming from the opposite side to the air intake
    • backdraft of hot combustion gases through the air intake pipe may result in the tent melting or catching fire where the pipe exits the tent, or other flammable items are touching the pipe
    • most tents have sufficient air exchange with outside air to ensure you do not run out of air inside the tent - especially if you follow the stove manufacturer's advice which is usually to have at least one door or window open
    • you will likely get far too hot in a 4 person air tight tent with a stove even in the snow!

Technical issues - controlling stove temperature

  • stoves are designed to operate in a certain temperature range - 200-370degC for stainless steel
  • wood generally starts to burn at 160degC and catches on fire (flames) at 200degC
  • temperature depends upon:
    • quality of the fuel
      • only use dry seasoned hardwood
      • using wet or unseasoned wood will result in low temperatures, lots of smoke bellowing into tent, and increased build up of creosote in the chimney - an all round poor experience!
      • using softwoods generate a lot more embers which may burn holes in your tent and creosote
      • using fuels that burn too hot such as paper will destroy the stove by warping the metal
    • amount of fuel burning
      • too much wood may cause it to over-fire
      • too large a piece of wood is likely to result in it going out unless continuous supply of small kindling is added to keep the flames going
    • temperature of the wood
      • the higher the temperature the more it will burn and more heat will be generated
    • amount of air flow (oxygen)
      • see above under draft and chimneys
      • you want intake vents and flue damper wide open when your start the fire
        • if you open the door to add more wood while the fire temperature is low, do it slowly to reduce smoke bellowing back into tent
  • you can more effectively regulate temperature with the intake than with the flue/exhaust damper
    • generally leave the flue damper open or at most a quarter closed
    • When a good fire is going, adjust the intake by watching the flames. Close the intake slowly till you see flames start to shrink, then open the intake a little.
    • if one opens the intake vent fully but closes the flue damper while the fire is hot and burning really well, the result will be an excessively hot chimney below the damper as the heat cannot escape as fast and you are still providing intake air - this could damage the stove and compromise a any flue jack if used in a tent
australia/wood_stoves.txt · Last modified: 2024/05/20 21:02 by gary1

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