omd:myset
Table of Contents
Olympus OM-D and PEN Myset customised settings
how to use MySets
step 1 - configure camera settings
- set up camera how you would like it
step 2 - save settings to a MySet
- go to Menu, Camera 1 then Reset/Myset, press OK
- scroll down to the MySet setting you wish to save your settings to
- IMPORTANT IF a setting has previously been saved (ie. value = Set instead of No Data)
- if you just press OK, your camera will be configured with your OLD MySet settings!
- THUS, you must scroll right by using R arrow then select SET then OK
step 3 - using a MySet setting
- go to Menu, Camera 1 then Reset/Myset, press OK
- scroll down to the MySet setting you wish to set the camera to
- IMPORTANT - JUST PRESS OK DO NOT use right arrow to next window
- scrolling right to next window will over-ride the current saved settings as per step 2 - this is NOT what you want here!
basic setting optimised for manual focus
- allows instant access to AF in MF mode via AFL button (or Fn 1 button if this is assigned to AFL)
- AF mode = MF
- use Fn1 or REC button to lock AF
- if giving the camera to another user, change AF to S-AF so that half-press shutter locks AF
- if you wish to AF on a slender or small subject, enter magnified view then press AFL button
- Fn 1:
- on cameras without a dedicated AFL button, set Fn1 to AEL/AFL
- or, for those with an E-M5 or earlier who like focus peaking and have set a focus peaking hack to MySet1, choose MySet1
- in cameras with an AFL button such as the E-M1:
- set Fn1 to focus peaking
- Fn 2 = Magnify
- REC button can be assigned to your preference such as
- MF
- so one can quickly toggle between SAF and MF modes
- Keystone (on E-M1)
- DOF Preview
- unfortunately you cannot assign this button to MySet1, as ideally I would have AFL assigned to Fn 1
- remember when PASM dial is set to movie mode, REC button becomes movie RECORD again
- I usually have REC assigned to something other than movie record to avoid accidentally starting a movie
- Right arrow button = ISO
- Down arrow button = WB mode
- set AF region to smallest square in the centre
- Shooting Menu 1:
- Picture Mode = Vivid (gives faster AF)
- Still Picture - LF+RAW or just RAW
- Image Aspect = 4:3
- Digital teleconverter = OFF
- Shooting Menu 2:
- drive = single shot
- Image stabiliser = I.S. 1 (on the E-M5) or S-IS Auto on later models
- NB. if using a legacy lens ensure IS focal length of the lens is manually entered in - this is NOT saved in MySet
- AF/MF:
- Full-time AF = OFF
- this just wastes the battery and will generally drive you crazy
- AEL/AFL = S1/C2/M3
- this is the critical function that allows AFL button to activate S-AF even when focus mode is MF
- MF Assist = OFF
- if you keep accidentally touching the lens manual focus ring and you find the automatic magnified view this is annoying, turn it OFF, you can always activate by pressing the function key you allocated to magnify view
- manually activating magnified view allows you a longer duration of magnified view as you must manually exit it by pressing the OK button
- AF Illuminator = OFF
- you don't really need this distracting functionality unless it is really dark
- Face detection = nearest eye
- Release:
- Half Way Rls With IS = ON
- this activates IS with half-press shutter
- essential for magnified view MF
- on the E-M5 IS is activated in magnified view only when shutter half-pressed
- on the E-M1 IS is activated in magnified view without need to half press the shutter
- turn off if you rarely use MF to save battery life
- Disp:
- Live BOOST = OFF
- EVF view is near WYSIWYG in terms of current exposure settings
- only really need this set to ON in very low light conditions (such as long exposures), or when using flash and you will be under-exposing ambient light
- LV Close Up Mode = mode 2 (allows AF to work even in magnified view!)
- Beep = OFF
- USB Mode = Storage
- Exp/ISO:
- ISO = 200 (best quality ISO)
- ISO-Auto Set upper limit = 1600 or 3200
- ISO-AUTO = ALL
- may be handy in Manual exposure mode when I want to keep shutter and aperture constant but still have auto exposure although currently cannot do exposure compensation with autoISO in M mode
- Anti-Shock = 0 sec to avoid shutter shake (on the E-M5, just set it to OFF)
- Custom Flash:
- additive exposure compensation = OFF (too complicated to work out otherwise)
- Quality/Color/WB:
- Noise Reduction = Auto
- this is to ensure automatic dark frame subtraction occurs to reduce thermal noise in longer exposures
- Noise Filter = LOW
- generally best not to use in-camera noise filtering but to adjust this in post-processing
flash photography with ambient under-exposed
- set as for MF shooter BUT:
- Live Boost = ON
- WB = flash or custom WB
sports
- set as for MF shooter BUT:
- ISO = 1600 (perhaps 3200 or autoISO)
- drive = hi burst rate or lo burst rate (if wish to use C-AF)
- consider a custom WB
- consider focus mode = C-AF + tracking but only if using an E-M1 and a fast AF lens
astrophotography
- assuming camera is mounted on a tripod or equatorial mount
- set as for RAW MF shooter BUT:
- ISO = 1600 (perhaps 3200)
- WB to incandescent (usually give nicer colours)
- Live BOOST = ON
- this allows one to see the stars in the EVF (if using a wide aperture lens)
- IS = OFF
- drive = self-timer 2sec (or 12 sec if shooting through a telescope)
- this reduces camera shake from you pressing the shutter release
"movie mode"
- as for MF but:
- Fn 2 = Digital teleconverter (the only real use for this is in movies)
- REC = REC
- AF mode = C-AF or MF
- or C-AF + tracking, if you want to retain AF on a single subject
omd/myset.txt · Last modified: 2015/01/22 14:25 by gary1