photo:ast_viewing
Table of Contents
astronomic viewing conditions
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- light pollution - see also light pollution
- sky turbulence:
-
- need to see what the cloud cover is like, even at night - check infra-red images
- see also:
Earth-bound astronomic viewing:
- our ability to view celestial objects from earth is determined by several related physical circumstances:
- object brightness
- atmospheric effects
- optical system
- light sensor system
- sky brightness
- dark adaptation
- “seeing”
- sky transparency
object brightness
- the brightness of astronomical objects such as stars is quantified by a logarithmic system using the unit “stellar magnitudes”:
- a difference of 5 stellar magnitudes equates to 100x brightness = ~6.5 f stops
- a difference of 7.5 magnitude equates to 1000x brightness = ~10 f stops
- a difference of 10 magnitudes equates to 10,000x brightness = ~13.5 f stops
- midday sun = -26.7 which results in 130,000 lumens/sq.m luminance onto earth's surface = 40,000,000,000 x brighter than zero magnitude
- full moon overhead = -12.5 which results in 0.267 lumens/sq.m luminance onto earth's surface = 100,000 x brighter than zero magnitude
- venus at brightest = -4.3 which results in 0.000139 lumens/sq.m luminance onto earth's surface
- sirius = -1.4 which results in 0.0000098 lumens/sq.m luminance onto earth's surface
- zero magnitude which results in 0.00000265 lumens/sq.m luminance onto earth's surface
- 1st magnitude which results in 0.000000105 lumens/sq.m luminance onto earth's surface = 0.398 x as bright as a zero magnitude
- 5th magnitude which results in 0.0000000265 lumens/sq.m luminance onto earth's surface = 0.01 x as bright as a zero magnitude
- 6th magnitude which results in 0.0000000105 lumens/sq.m luminance onto earth's surface
- relative brightness ratio = 10-(magnitude difference/2.5)
- magnitude difference = -2.5Log(relative brightness ratio)
atmospheric effects
- extinction of incoming light making the celestial object fainter - see sky transparency
- competing brightness of the atmosphere (sky brightness) which reduces the contrast between it and the light from the celestial object and thus, when there is no contrast the object will no longer be visible. Light from the atmosphere is due to a combination of natural sky glow, moonlight, and light pollution. Typical values magnitude per sq. arc sec of sky are 17 for urban, 19 for rural and 21 for alpine.
- atmospheric turbulence results in almost random changes to the refractory path of the incoming light as a result of changes in the refractive index of different air masses due to differing temperatures and air pressure resulting in "seeing" effects
optical system
resolution
- the ability to distinguish close objects such as resolving binary stars, rings on saturn
- this is dependent on:
- aperture diameter (ie. proportional to the diameter)
- optical alignment of the system (poorly aligned optics impairs viewing)
- optical quality
- “seeing” conditions which impose the greatest limitation on a telescope and usually is the limiting factor in apertures > 4“
- magnification
light-gathering power
- the ability to funnel light into a small point for viewing is proportional to the area of the aperture (ie. square of its radius)
- when compared to the naked eye with an effective aperture of approx. 1/4 ” (ie. light-gathering power = 1), telescopes with the following effective apertures will have light-gathering powers of:
- 2“ = 64x; 3” = 144x; 4“ = 256x; 5” = 400x; 6“ = 576x; 8” = 1024x; 10“ = 1600x; 16” = 4096x; 32“ = 16384x;
- thus the resulting limiting magnitude of stars visible in good conditions ranges from 10.3 for a 50mm aperture, to 13.3 for a 200mm aperture, etc.
threshold contrast
- unlike light-gathering power, telescopes of increasing aperture quickly approach a limit to its threshold contrast - the ability to display an object of given brightness on a given background sky brightness
- an 8” aperture telescope has nearly 200x better threshold contrast than the naked eye,
- a 16“ is approx. 300x, ie. only 50% better than a 8”
- a 64“ is 1000x better than naked eye but only 5x better than an 8”
- a 2048“ is ~3000x better than naked eye but only 15x better than an 8” despite being 256x larger!
other factors
- diffraction-related limitations
- optical artefacts
- see telescopes
light sensor system:
- visual - see dark adaptation and vision
- photographic film - see astrophotography
- CCD digital sensors - see astrophotography with digital cameras and CCD Astrophotography
sky brightness
light pollution
- see Light Pollution for details.
- if the air around us was completely clean and pure, free of all dust, pollutants and light, this issue wouldn't be so crucial. But that's sadly not the case. All the dust and pollution that is suspended in the air scatters light in all directions.
- the primary sources of this photonic pollution are street/city lights (like outdoor building lighting) and the moon (full moon being the worst). To minimise the effects of the moon, move to higher altitudes to decrease the amount of air particles which scatter the moonlight and impair viewing.
- light pollution reduces the detail and brightness of objects.
- light pollution can be easily seen by the lighting up of clouds at night
- A typical suburban sky today is about 5 to 10 times brighter at the zenith than the natural sky. In city centers the zenith may be 25 or 50 times brighter than the natural background.
- The night sky from light-polluted areas can be quite bright, and naturally acquires the color of the predominant source of light pollution. It is a reddish-orange for sodium vapor lighting, and greenish for mercury vapor lighting.
- unfortunately, in some countries such as Japan and England, soon no-one will be able to see the Milky Way without going to another country because of light pollution as there will be no rural areas more than 100km from an urban area.
natural sky glow
- The moonless night sky at a remote location far from any man-made light pollution is, however, still not completely black. To most people who are fully dark adapted, it appears a dark gray, but it may also have some faint color.
- The dark night sky is illuminated by a natural skyglow that is composed of four parts:
- Airglow is the brightest component and is caused by oxygen atoms glowing in the upper atmosphere which are excited by solar ultraviolet radiation. Airglow gets worse at solar maximum. Airglow can add a faint green or red color to the sky background. The color may be vivid if there is a strong aurora occurring.
- Interplanetary dust particles reflect and scatter sunlight and make up the zodiacal light and gegenschein.
- At night starlight is scattered by the atmosphere, just as sunlight is during the daytime. Air molecules scatter short blue wavelengths more, which is why the daytime sky is blue. The night sky also has a very faint blue component from scattered starlight.
- Countless stars and nebulae in our own galaxy also contribute to the brightness of the night sky, most easily seen in the form of the Milky Way.
dark adaption and exposure to bright lights
- see in vision
- in short:
- you cannot see faint objects such as nebulae in colour unless the telescope aperture is at least 16“
- it takes ~ 30 to 60min for your eyes to adapt to the dark and this process must restart if there is significant exposure to lights, especially bright lights (minimise this by using faint red lights but if you can see that it's red on the paper your looking at, it's too bright)
- if you go out on for long on a sunny day, expect to lose about three-quarters of a magnitude in your magnitude threshold the succeeding night—after extended exposure to high-intensity scenes (beach, snow-skiing on sunny days), it takes more than 24 hours to become fully dark-adapted! The usual half-hour or hour won't do. Wear “glacier glasses” when outside during daytime.
Good seeing
- for details see astronomic "seeing"
What does "good seeing" mean?
- The atmosphere is a complex and ever changing mass of air which can drastically affect how well you can see with your telescope. To the naked eye, on what would appear to be a clear night, stars and planets might look just fine. But through a telescope, focusing may actually be next to impossible.
- Observing planets, planetary nebulae or any celestial object with details at high power requires excellent seeing conditions. The seeing is the term used in astronomy to quantify the steadiness or the turbulence of the atmosphere.
- When we look at planets, we need high power to see all the fine details but most of the time we are limited by turbulence occurring in the telescope (local seeing) and/or in the atmosphere.
- During a night of bad seeing we are usually limited to see only two bands on the Jupiter disc and we can hardly use power over 100-150x. On excellent seeing conditions we can use high power and see many bands, white spots, festoons and details in the great red spot. Excellent seeing with high quality telescopes can also show details on the largest moon of Jupiter, Ganymede. What we are seeking is the best nights where we can boost our telescopes to their limits… which reach as high as 50X per inch diameter for quality telescopes… which means 500x for a quality 10-inch ( 25cm ) instrument.
- A night of exceptionally good seeing, a night where the detail seen on Jupiter causes observers to swoon and swear, is thought to be rare. It would be boon to a know in advance when good and bad seeing might occur.
factors affecting seeing:
- Haze/Smog
- The Jet Stream/Upper Level Winds
- local air disturbances:
- “surface layer seeing”:
- lower atmosphere temperature differentials and wind shear effects especially in the lowest 200m above ground level
- in general, the higher up in altitude, the better the seeing because there is less atmosphere to see through.
- telescopes with top of opening at least 10m above ground level can be expected to perform much better than those at ground level.
- rising heat:
- try to use a position which is not looking at the planets over the top of the house especially if the house heater is on. The heat fluctuations coming off the top of the house get between you and the planets.
- bad seeing caused by local effects, like a hot driveway, is properly called ground seeing.
- “dome seeing”
- poor seeing due to air refraction with telescope domes
- air disturbances “tube currents” within the telescope causing “mirror seeing”:
- Reflectors are notorious for their tube currents. Any open-ended tube should be ventilated as well as possible. Suspending a fan behind a reflector's mirror has become a popular way to speed cooling and blow out mixed-temperature air, otherwise a 10” Newtonian may take 2-3 hours to stabilise.
- It's easy to check whether tube currents trouble your images:
- Turn a bright star far out of focus until its a big, uniform disk of light.
- Tube currents will show as thin lines of light and shadow slowly looping and curling across the disk.
- if the out-of-focus star disk swarms with wrinkles that scoot across the view, entering one edge and leaving the other, then there is local seeing near the telescope.
When and Where is "Good Seeing" Possible?
- It is imperative your telescope temperature has stabilised and there are no heat sources to create hot air currents in your light path otherwise all is lost!
- The best time to observe is just before dawn, when the air is stillest after the Earth has given off it's heat over night.
- Looking through the least amount of atmosphere by observing when the object is overhead or at it's highest and preferably from high altitude (>1500m above sea level) and at least 10m from ground level or at least on grass rather than concrete.
- As you use a telescope on different nights, you will find every night is different depending on the weather, pollution, heat, humidity and dust.etc. One night you won't be able to use more than 200x magnification, then on the next night you can. There are different ways to tell roughly. How much the stars twinkle is one way or finding out the UV (ultra-violet) rating for the day on the weather is another. After a while you can tell just by looking at an object you know.
"Airy Disk":
- the disc-like image of a planet or star (or any point source) which is seen through an optical system with a circular aperture.
- the majority of the light from the object is within this disc, and this is what limits the resolving power of a telescope.
- it is a series of concentric rings around a bright star and the ability to see it indicates excellent optics and seeing conditions.
- the central disk is known as the Airy disk and it's size in inversely proportional to the size of the telescope objective.
- That is why a large telescope can see more detail under perfect conditions than a small one.
- Because of physical limits the Airy disk is the smallest detail that can be seen at maximum magnification and the smaller it is, the less it intrudes on the detail. Makes little difference when looking at a star which can never be resolved because of distance but when looking at the surface of Mars or the Moon, every feature is just a lot of Airy disks all jumbled together and the larger they are, the fuzzier the image.
measuring "seeing":
- Professional astronomers and more advanced astro-amateurs evaluate the seeing with a scale 1-10. Through a telescope, they measure the star diameter which usually ranges from bad seeing at 5-8 arcsec to excellent seeing at 0.5-0.2 arcsec. Astro-amateurs, can also use a qualitative way to measure the seeing. They look through their telescope at the zenith for a 2-3 magnitude star at about 30-40X per inch diameter ( 300-400x for a 10 inch telescope ) and from the look of the diffraction pattern they estimate the seeing on a scale I-V.
- the seeing can be rated through astro-amateur telescopes with the following guidance incl. arc-seconds diameters:
- V ….. Perfect motionless diffraction pattern….<0.4“
- IV….. Light undulations across diffraction rings…..0.4-0.9”
- III….. Central disc deformations. Broken diffraction rings…..1.0-2.0“
- II…… Important eddy streams in the central disc. Missing or partly missing diffraction rings…..3.0-4.0”
- I……. Boiling image without any sign of diffraction pattern……>4“
sky transparency
planning for an astronomy night
- in the city:
- the severe light pollution and poor sky transparency alone will mean that you will never be able to see faint deep sky objects no matter what telescope you have. Brighter objects such as Orion nebula can be seen but not in their details which are fainter.
- you will be able to see:
- fairly good detail on the moon as well as most occultations
- bands on Jupiter,
- rings around Saturn
- polar ice cap and some other surface details on Mars at opposition as long as telescope can be cranked up to 250-300x magnification, but this will be limited by how good the seeing is as well as the telescope optic quality.
- select a good “dark sky” location:
- any site more than 50km from cities should have reasonable dark sky with little industrial air pollution
- consider mountains as seeing and sky transparency should be considerably better esp. if >1500m above sea level
- avoid sites where local lights or lights of passing cars will affect dark adaptation of your eyes (and also avoid dusty locations which will result in contamination of your optics)
- coastal areas although may have good seeing if ocean breezes, may have worse sky transparency due to sea salt, thus in general, an inland location is best.
- predicting a night with good sky transparency:
- the main criteria is low air humidity such as during a high pressure system, however, inversion layers that occur during these times can trap air particles and create smog such as occurs in Autumn around Melbourne.
- indicators for good transparency evenings when deep sky viewing is best:
- Watch the colour of the daytime sky, especially near the horizon. The bluer the sky, the darker the night will probably be. The white haze in a blue sky consists of microscopic water droplets that have condensed on tiny solid particles, primarily sulphate dust from distant factories and power plants. These particles are the precursors of acid rain. They do just as good a job of scattering artificial light at night. A deep blue sky in the afternoon should mean a transparent sky after dark.
- A windy cold front sweeping through a city can clear out local air pollution, leaving the night marvellously dark. The windiest city and suburban nights are often the darkest. A passing rainstorm or blizzard can also leave an unusually dark night in its wake.
- After a cold front passes - often with a heavy rain or snowstorm - the sky usually becomes very dark and crystal clear but, unfortunately, very turbulent. These clear nights, when stars twinkle vigorously and the temperature plummets, may be great for deep-sky observing but are usually worthless for the planets.
- predicting a night with good seeing:
- Poor seeing does seem more likely shortly before or after a change in the weather, in partial cloudiness, in wind, and in unseasonable cold. Any weather pattern that brings shearing air masses into your sky is bad news.
- minimising the effects of poor seeing:
- minimise tube currents by ensuring telescope is allowed to cool to evening air temperatures
- minimise ground seeing effects by:
- locating telescope on grass rather than concrete and as high as possible off the ground
- avoid viewing across house roofs
- time your viewing so that object to view is near zenith when possible
- consider locating at high altitude although the cold may outweigh the benefits
- avoid nights of full moon which dramatically impede ability to see faint objects
- avoid windy nights which will make telescope shake too much
photo/ast_viewing.txt · Last modified: 2026/04/17 01:05 by gary1
