My tips for buying a digital
- NB. the following opinions are derived from published articles
and not always from personal observation, so please regard them as
such, I do not take any responsibility for your final choice! To see
what I actually buy, go to My tools.
- there is no perfect camera, so you probably need more than one
camera for different occasions and uses:
- the super compact rugged, indestructible point and shoot to
take with you all the time or at least on social events (eg. Olympus
7xx SW series).
- a light, compact, high quality non-SLR with medium zoom and
filter thread for travel and where silence is needed (eg. Canon G9).
- a light, compact image stabilised dSLR with live preview for
the more advanced photographer who wants to experiment, use long
telephotos while bushwalking or just take great quality portrait or
travel photos (eg. Olympus E510)
- a robust, weather-sealed, medium-priced dSLR that will
perform most jobs extremely well but still not be too heavy or big (eg.
Olympus E3, Nikon D300 or Canon 40D)
- a high end dSLR for action photography (eg. Canon 1DMIII or Nikon D3)
- a super high end dSLR for
pros or enthusiasts who wish to create high quality large posters (eg.
Canon 1DsMIII, Mamiya ZD, Hasselblad, etc)
- a camera is just a tool that enables you to use your creativity
and experience to take photos, just like buying a grand piano will not
make you a pianist, buying a camera does not mean you will always take
great photos. The capabilities of the camera sets limits to what you
can do with it, but at the end of the day, it is your understanding of
the camera, principles of photography and your creativity and
opportunities that will determine how good your photos are.
- nearly all cameras will allow good quality snap shots fairly
easily (except the more expensive SLR's which are a bit more
complicated to use, and the expensive SLRs can require quite a bit of
knowledge and practice to use at all).
- don't get sucked in by lots of megapixels - the more megapixels
crammed into a small sensor means worse image quality. 5-8mp is all
most people need, and 10-12mp is reasonable in a dSLR.
- if you want to print 20" x 30" or larger and your subject matter
requires much detail, then choose a camera with larger pixel size with
the highest quality lenses possible, preferably designed for digital
sensors - a 10 or 12mp camera carefully shot can produce 20"x 30"
prints, but if it is a point and shoot camera the image detail will
suffer and it will look impressionistic while if it is a dSLR it will
look good, and possibly brilliant if it is a high end camera with a
medium format sensor.
- at the end of the day, if you don't bring the camera with you, no
matter how good it is, you won't get a photo, so size does matter.
- if you want to do nice landscape photos, you MUST be able to put
gradient filters on the lens (ie. the lens must have a filter thread)
otherwise your skies will often be washed out and disappointing.
- if you want to do nice portraits with background blurred, then
you need a dSLR with a nice lens for
portraits which means in the 80-120mm effective focal length with a
wide aperture such as f/1.8-2.8
- some general points about camera selection:
- you probably need more than one camera:
- a compact point and shoot which you can take in your
pocket everywhere without getting damaged.
- preferably no more than 6-8mpixels:
ideally these small sensor cameras
should not have more than 6mpixels as there is no gain in image quality
at higher megapixels and indeed less image quality at the cost of
bigger file sizes.
furthermore diffraction effects
mean LESS image sharpness with apertures smaller than f/3.5
take the manufacturer's hype of
high ISO performance with a grain of salt, these small sensors will
have image noise at ISO levels higher than 200 or else the noise will
be removed at the cost of image detail or resolution.
- an almost indestructible ultra-compact camera:
- consider the Olympus 720SW which is 7 mpixels, 3x optical zoom,
waterproof to 3m & shockproof to 1.5m drop
- there are newer versions:
- the 725SW which gives improved
- the 770SW which is waterproof even more
- the 790SW which adds operation down to
-10degC with waterproof to 3m and face detection AF but still does not
have true image stabiliser.
- the 795SW as for 790SW but waterproof to
10m for an extra $A100
- the 850SW 8mp, 38-114mm, waterproof 3m,
shockproof 1.5m, LED macro-illuminator, face-detection AF
- the 1030SW 10mp, 28-102mm zoom,
waterproof 10m, drop proof 2m, freeze proof, face-detection AF,
- I have to say, these are great cameras, the
best pocket point and shoots for 2006/2007 in my book, you can shoot
underwater in your swimming pool or in the surf without worrying about
it, or just take it to the beach without having to worry about the sand
and with the 790/850/1030 you can take them to the snow, and its built
- BUT as with any compact point and shoot,
their lower image quality in comparison to a dSLR will limit
- an ultra compact camera which doubles as a
multimedia player for music & videos:
- BenQ DSC X800:
- well, although this is not as indestructible
as the Olympus SW series it might mean you don't need to carry an iPod
and this model has an image stabiliser but its not waterproof or
dustproof or drop proof.
- if you want a compact camera with more zoom,
- Casio Exilim EX-V7 (2007) which is 7mpixels, 7x
optical zoom, CCD shift IS, and movies to boot, but no where as robust
as the Olympus.
- if you want a compact camera with higher image
quality and fixed 28mm lens:
- Sigma DP1:
- 14mp via 3 layered Foveon dSLR size sensor
using large 7.8micron pixels;
- f/4 fixed focal length lens giving 28mm
- hotshoe; qVGA movie mode; RAW X3F mode;
optional optical viewfinder;
- only 240g; 9pt AF with MF over-ride; SD card;
- may suit travel landscape photographers who
want to travel light but shoot high quality images but perhaps you
cannot use the all-important filters which makes the camera much less
useful - perhaps it may find a use in street photography although the
lack of 3x zoom will be limiting for other uses.
- if you want something a bit bigger and more
advanced but will still fit in a trouser or jacket pocket then you need
an advanced non-dSLR digital:
- Canon G9:
- Ricoh Caplio GX100:
- NOW WATCH THIS SPACE - THE
FUTURE IS COMING:
- There is a place for a
quality digital camera that one can take with you everywhere but yet be
able to be expanded with high quality lenses if needed.
- We already have
relatively small & light digital SLRs such as the Nikon D40 and the
even smaller Olympus E420, but for the majority of the population, even
these are too big to carry with you all the time, so many of us resort
to Canon G9 or smaller point and shoots, but as good as these are they
don't usually allow compatibility with your main dSLR or ability to
extend them easily.
- Olympus and Panasonic
have announced in Aug 2008 that they are extending their Four Thirds
system smaller to produce even smaller cameras and lenses - the Micro
Four Thirds but which still uses the same size Four Thirds sensor as their almost waterproof semi-pro E3 camera.
- see http://www.olympus-global.com:80/en/news/2008b/nr080805fourthirdse.cfm
- Now the beauty of this
is that not only can you potentially have an even smaller, lighter dSLR and lens to take with you everywhere, but
you can put almost any lens ever made on it via an adapter (the main
exceptions are Canon lenses), such as a normal Olympus or in manual
focus, a Nikon, Carl Zeiss, Leica R, Minolta, Konica, or whatever, and
have them all image stabilised and as it has no mirror, it will be
almost silent and have movie mode and rapid burst modes.
- And given the shorter
flange distance, it wouldn't surprise me if you will be able to use
Leica M lenses.
- if you want an ultrazoom point and shoot for
travel with CCD-shift image stabiliser then:
- do you REALLY need an ultrazoom because the price
you pay for it is increased lens size, even smaller sensor size (except
the S100FS) and thus more image noise at high ISO and generally poorer
overall image quality.
- for most people a zoom in the range of 24-120mm
or 28-200mm will be adequate for the far majority of their photos
whilst maintaining reasonable image quality, unfortunately, the most
useful part of the zoom, the wide angle is often compromised with
widest being 35mm as in the otherwise excellent Canon G9.
- Nikon P80:
- Fuji S100FS:
- 2/3" 11mp sensor; tiltable LCD; 28-400mm
f/2.8-5.3 lens with optical IS; face recognition;
- new film simulation bracketing & dynamic
range bracketing modes;
- 7fps at 3mp; 918g w/o batt;
- very heavy but larger sensor than the Olympus
SP or Canon G9, and hopefully a better image quality.
- worth a look.
- see http://www.dpreview.com/news/0801/08012410fujifS100FS.asp
- Fuji S2000HD:
- 1/2.3" 10mp sensor; 28-414mm f/3.5-5.4 lens
with CCD-shift IS;
- 13.5fps at 3mp; face detection AF with red
- shutter speeds only 4sec-1/1000th;
- HD movies (1280x720x30fps);
- 60fps refresh EVF and LCD screen; 426g w/o
batt; xD/SD; 1cm macro;
- see http://www.dpreview.com/news/0808/08081201fujifilms2000hd.asp
- Olympus SP-560UZ:
- similar to 550UZ (super-macro to 1cm, a 15fps
burst mode albeit in 1.2mp. Longest shutter speed is only 0.5sec, and
no ext. flash shoe but at least it has RAW mode unlike the Canon
- but 8mp, 27-486mm f/2.8-4.5, 30fps VGA mode
movie; face detection AF; 365g;
- this is a better zoom range and megapixel
count than the Canon G9 if you can live without a flash mount for
external flash and you can put up with using xD cards, although the G9
may be nicer to use.
- Olympus SP-570UZ:
- Sony H9 which is 8mp, 31-465mm f/2.7-4.5 15x zoom,
focus to 50cm, 2.2fps, 9 AF points with face detection, 30sec -
1/4000th sec shutter, ISO 3200, IR nightshot mode, HDTV output but ? no
- if you want rapid sequence action shots in a
- Casio EXILIM Pro EX-F1:
- ground-breaking new camera for 2008 offering
some incredible image capture speeds:
- 60 frames at 6mp resolution at between
- rapid flash sequences of up to 20 frames
at 6mp at 1-7fps
- high speed movie recording at HD
1920x1080 at 60fps or by reducing resolution, at 300, 600 or 1200fps +
HDMI connections for TV.
- image stabilised; 12x zoom 36-432mm eq.
- interesting for some purposes but don't
expect image quality, high ISO or AF performance of a dSLR.
- Casio EXILIM EX-FH20:
- a more sophisticated digital
- to allow you to use filters, external flashes and
have better lens resolution, low light functionality, more shallow
depth of field so you can make your subject stand out, lower noise and
- these cameras are more difficult to use than point
and shoots and require a little effort to learn the basics of
photography and how to get the best from the camera.
- the larger sensor will usually give the best dynamic
range and lowest noise, while the versatility of interchangeable lenses
and generally faster speed of operation and far superior manual focus
allow for potentially better photos that may be impossible to take with
other cameras. In addition, the larger sensor size allows narrower
depth of field & thus the ability to isolate a subject from the
- look for a dSLR with an image stabiliser, good lenses
at an affordable price and a brand that is likely to be progressive.
- a good camera for the advanced amateur or for
travel is the Olympus E510.
- for those with a higher budget, look at either of
these very good mid-range dSLRs:
- Olympus E3,
Nikon D300, or Canon 40D (unfortunately the latter two still do not
have in-built image stabilisation and you must pay extra for lenses
with this built in).
- reasons to buy a digital SLR:
- creativity and versatility:
- use of different lenses, filters and ability
to use available light at lower levels without a tripod makes for more
versatility and thus opens up creative options.
- you are the sort of person who is willing to
go and take lots of photos, experimenting with different perspectives,
exposures, filters, and focal lengths.
- AF performance in low light or for moving
- unlike point and shoots which use slow,
poorly performing contrast detection AF, digital SLRs generally have
faster, more reliable phase contrast AF which is often combined with
faster AF motors in the lenses and improved ability to track moving
- less digital noise at high ISO
- this is particularly important for action
photography and available light photography of a moving target.
- also important for astrophotography
- ability to blur the background & foreground
to make a subject stand out
- this is a very handy feature of cameras with
larger sensors and wide aperture telephoto lenses and can really make
the difference in many photos including portraits.
- Olympus dSLR with a 50mm f/2 macro or the
- Canon or Nkon dSLR with 50mm f/1.4, 85mm
f/1.8, 135mm f/2.0L, 70-200mm f/2.8L
- see portrait
- long telephoto performance for wildlife, sports:
- although you can get point and shoots with
ultrazooms, results are likely to be disappointing as you miss out on
the following features:
- fast burst mode to capture action
sequences (most dSLRs have at least 3 fps)
- fast AF at the telephoto end (most point
and shoots struggle with AF at telephoto end, especially in low light)
- ability to use high ISO with minimal
noise or wide apertures to allow faster shutter speeds to minimise
camera shake or freeze the action.
- ultrawide angle or fisheye photography
- image quality to enable good looking large prints
- many factors contribute to image quality (see
- dSLRs with their larger sensors have more
dynamic range and lower noise at high ISO
- generally better lenses are available for
dSLRs and good quality lenses are often more important than the camera
features in allowing a great quality photo, hence I tend to stick with
Canon L prime lenses or Olympus ZD pro lenses. I am yet to be convinced
of the quality of the lenses for Canon/Nikon cropped sensors - even a
lowly 50mm f/1.8 lens might be better than these zooms - see here.
- the larger sensor allows smaller apertures
(eg. f/8) without losing resolution due to diffraction effects
- viewfinder quality
- ability to accurately manual focus
- most point and shoots and even most dSLRs
have poor manual focus facilities (look for live preview on the newer
- not all situations are suitable for autofocus
so manual focus can be important - eg. macro work.
- reasons not to buy a digital SLR:
- not willing to invest some time in learning how
to best use them
- there is a bit of a learning curve - be
prepared not to use "AUTO" mode.
- if you are not prepared to learn the basics about ISO, aperture, depth
of field, focal length and shutter speed, then don't bother wasting
your money on a dSLR - get someone else to take your great photos.
- size or weight not suitable for your use
- eg. social photography, unwanted attention, a
camera you always carry with you.
- you like doing self-portraits
- this is hard with most dSLRs, except perhaps
the Olympus E3 with its swivel live
- you really like using the live preview LCD for
- although the latest dSLRs have live preview,
their use is no where as easy as point and shoots and most have AF
issues and shutter lag issues (except Olympus E330 an Sony 350).
- money - it can get to be an expensive hobby as
there is always more you can buy!
- if you are always going to worry your camera
will be broken or stolen, then perhaps you may be better off with a
cheaper camera that will stress you less.
- this can also be an issue if traveling to
places where theft or violence on the street is more likely if you are
seen carrying what appears to be an expensive camera
- shooting in quiet environments
- all dSLRs are a bit noisy due to the mirror
mechanism, so if you need silence as at classical music concerts and
conferences, etc, then a non-dSLR may be the better choice.
- you need a movie mode
- no current dSLRs have a movie mode
- once I narrowed the cameras down, I would then look at
other features such as:
- image quality (not just megapixels)
- unfortunately this is the area that tends to get
sacrificed for portability - professional photographers don't use large
cameras just because they like large cameras, its because they give the
best image quality for producing large enlargements.
- but there is also the argument of better a photo than
none at all - hence the reason for point and shoots.
- image quality depends on:
- resolution / image detail:
- accuracy of focus
- absence of camera shake (ie. use a tripod, image
stabiliser or a fast shutter speed)
- absence of motion blur (ie. sufficiently fast
shutter speed for moving objects - hence often need a high ISO and wide
- lens resolution
resolution (most modern sensors have reasonable sensor resolution in
pixels/mm - many small ones have too much and the lens becomes the
- adequate lens contrast:
- lens flare will reduce image contrast and
thus apparent resolution - a lens hood will help
- dynamic range:
- the greater the dynamic range of the sensor,
the better the ability to get detail in both shadow and highlight
regions which is particularly important for high contrast scenes such
as weddings where bride wears white and groom wears black).
- digital sensor noise:
- digital noise is a big problem at higher ISO
levels and is related to sensor size & its dynamic range
- the more modern sensors and the bigger they
are will generally result in lower noise.
- you can remove noise by software but the
trade-off is less image detail.
- these tend to be a function of the lens but
can be also due to the system as a whole (vignetting, moire, purple
- the longer the zoom range on the lens, the
more likely you will have aberrations along with decreased resolution
& lens contrast.
- you can always make an image less sharp, less
detailed, or more contrasty in Photoshop, but you can't add in more
detail, hence its usually best to capture as much detail as possible at
- for my preferred types of photography, I want great
quality at wide apertures, and unfortunately, this means expensive
lenses such as Canon L primes or Nikon/Olympus pro series lenses.
- ability to focus:
- most cameras are pretty good at handling exposure and
colour balance but what can make a big difference in a photo is how
accurate the focus is and did it focus on what you wanted it to -
unfortunately, while modern auto-focus has come a long way, it is often
fooled or unable to gain a focus and, apart from the Olympus E330, E410, E510, E3, Fuji S5 Pro,
Canon 1DMIII / 40D, Nikon D3/D300 not many digital cameras have an
accurate manual focus over-ride.
- the digital SLRs have
much faster and more accurate AF systems that work much better in low
light or for fast moving subjects than do point and shoots. The Olympus E3 has the fastest AF that works in
low light levels.
- usability in terms of rapid access to menu options, LCD
screen visibility, instant start up, focus capability, image write
time, external flash, battery life, etc.
- size and weight - can I take it everywhere and maximise
- robust/weatherproof/dustproof - is it only plastic?; can
I protect the lens with a UV filter?; will the CCD sensor need costly
regular cleaning as with most digital SLRs? will dust get inside the
lens where it cannot be cleaned?
- ability to take photos in RAW mode, preferably with jpeg
at same time
- ability to attach a polarising (make sure the front lens
element does not rotate as with the cheap Canon kit lenses) or ND
filter (to allow longer exposures in daytime to capture moving water
- medium term viability of manufacturer if considering a
- HP have stopped marketing cameras to Asia (2004)
- Kodak stopped marketing digital SLRs (2004) and low
end point and shoots (2007)
- Konica Minolta have stopped marketing digital cameras
(2005) and bought out by Sony
- Mamiya are selling their film & digital camera
business to IT company Cosmos (2006)
- Pentax bought out by Hoya (2007)
- special requirements such as:
- low light:
- fast f/ratio lens, low noise at high ISO, good
auto and manual focus, image stabiliser, can I see on LCD or viewfinder?
- Canon 40D/5D/1DMIII, Nikon D3/D300, Olympus E3
(for its IS, fast AF and wide aperture lenses).
- people photography:
- ability to blur the background and avoid
distortion of the face
- face detection technology to AF on the face
- a bit gimmicky and slow, maybe OK for
- not yet available on dSLRs except in certain
live preview modes
- street photography:
- quiet, compact, unobtrusive
- live LCD preview in flip up screen for waist
level shots (eg. Olympus C8080, E330, E3, Sony H7/9)
- action and wildlife photography:
- fast AF, fast shot-to-shot times, fast telephoto
- Canon 40D, Nikon D300, Olympus E3
- or if you are a pro sports photographer then you
probably need the high end digitals
- see super tele
- ability to add a IR filter; IR sensitivity, RAW
mode, live LCD preview or rangefinder-type optical viewfinder (can use
digital SLR but need to compose then put filter on as once on UNLESS it
has wide aperture lens with Live Preview BOOST as with Olympus E510, E3)
- see infra-red
- Bulb long exposures; low noise at high ISO, low
dark frame noise (eg. Canon dslrs), ability to attach to telescope,
preferably magnified live LCD preview to assist focusing (eg. modified
- avoid full frame sensors if not using a camera
lens as most telescopes can't cope well with the larger image circle
- see astrophoto
- magnified live LCD preview to assist focusing
(Olympus E330, E510, E3, Canon 40D, Nikon D300)
- closest focus or options for macro lenses
- see macro
- under-water photography:
- UW housing availability, strobe flash, can you
see the image underwater - LCD live preview very handy, etc (Olympus
- panoramic landscapes:
- is the tripod mount at centre of the optical axis
to ensure accuracy in sequential images.
- availability of high quality wide angle lenses
especially designed for digital photography
- see panorama
- wedding photography:
- fast lens eg. 70-200 f/2.8 and a fast wider angle
eg. 24-85mm f/3.5
- reasonably fast SLR with great low light AF
- reasonably fast x-sync for fill-in flash in
daylight (Olympus E3, Nikon D300)
- great kits would be:
- the Olympus E3 with 12-60mm f/2.8-3.5 (ie.
24-120mm) plus either 50mm f/2.0 macro or 50-200mm f/2.8-3.5 SWD (ie.
- Nikon D3 with Zoom-Nikkor AF-S 28-70mm f/2.8D
ED IF and AF-S VR 70-200mm f/2.8G IF-E
- Nikon D300 with DX Zoom-Nikkor AF-S 18-55mm
VR (ie. 27-83mm) and AF-S VR 70-200mm f/2.8G IF-E
- Canon 5D or 1DMIII with EF 28-70mm f/2.8L
plus EF 70-200mm f/2.8L
- you will always have a compromise, but in the end you
have to decide on what you can compromise on. There is no perfect
camera out there.
- use high capacity batteries - either NiMH or lithium as cost is
~6c/cycle compared to $4/cycle with alkaline AA's
- buy larger capacity flash memory cards (eg. 2Gb-8Gb) and avoid
expensive or near-obsolete formats such as MMC, SmartMedia or Sony and
remember that while CF & SD cards can be used as "large floppy
discs" for any data, xD can only be used for pics. For digital SLRs,
buy fast cards such as Sandisk Extreme III CF for faster RAW mode or
Jpeg burst shooting.
- buy a USB 2.0 multiformat flash memory reader to make it easier
to transfer images to computers
- don't bother using digital zoom as you may as well just zoom in
on the computer after the pic has been taken
- use the shutter's half-position to ensure appropriate auto-focus
has been achieved (or better still use a dedicated AF button if
available as it is on most dSLRs)
- remember basic photography rules
- exposure, focus, composition, avoid camera shake blurring photos by
using tripod or flash, perspective, polarising or infrared filters for
dramatic skies, etc
- adjust ISO speed rating to suit the lighting or desired result
(eg. 400 in dim light or for action photos, 100 for portraits, etc for
- adjust white balance if accuracy of colour is important, do a
custom WB or shoot in RAW mode.
- most cameras will have some purple fringing when including very
bright objects in the image such as the sun, consider stopping the lens
down or avoid the object.
- store image originals safely & ensure you do not accidentally
edit the originals - even rotating jpegs can degrade the image as jpegs
use lossy compression algorithms (lossless jpeg rotation is possible
- always edit a COPY of the original image
- if a picture is going to be important to you, consider taking it
in lossless mode such as RAW rather than as JPEG although this will
take up lots more room on the memory card - you can always convert to
jpeg on a computer later.
zoom and megapixels:
- for adequate versatility, the basic optical zoom lens should
ideally be at least 3x optical and zoom range should ideally start at
28mm although most start at 35mm (in 35mm camera equivalence terms).
- digital zoom results in increasingly poor quality and is
generally not useful
- image scale in arcsecs/pixel = 206 * (pixel size in microns) /
(effective 35mm equivalent maximum focal length in mm)
- field of view in arcseconds = number of pixels horizontally /
- optical magnification = 35mm equivalent focal length / 50mm
- FOV horizontal in degrees = 41.2deg / optical magnification
- this is based on a 35mm camera with 50mm lens having a FOV of
41.2deg x 27.6deg
- thus for 105mm = 19.6deg, 140mm = 14.7deg; 196mm = 10.5deg;
Choosing a backup film camera that works
- medium format twin lens reflex camera:
- uses 120 film and thus is big, bulky and heavy but relatively
quiet as no mirror to move.
- see TLRs
- medium format SLR:
- uses 120 film and thus is big, bulky, heavy and noisy -
usually need to mount on a tripod for best results
- unlike the TLR, have inter-changeable film backs so can carry
spares loaded with different film for different circumstances.
- unfortunately, the cheaper, discontinued Bronica series do
- see medium format
- 35mm SLR:
- Olympus OM-1N
- out of production but readily available on Ebay but
usually light meter not work
- most will need servicing to have perished rubber light
- Nikon FM - still being made
- All metal, excellent metal focal plane shutter, uses most
Nikon lenses, an electronic meter that is first rate and trouble free
and that isn't linked electronically to the exposure system.
- 35mm rangefinder:
- Leica CL:
- It's tricky to load the CL, but once you do, you will
realize that it has one of the best film pressure plates ever invented.
- The CL is compact but should be treated with respect. Try
to get the soft leather case that came with it or have one made by a
- The CL isn't merely a backup camera. It is a prime
camera, though its small size is misleading.
- It has a brilliant viewfinder with compensating frames
for 40 and 90mm lenses.
- Make sure you get the CL with its native 40mm Summicron.
Minolta made most of the CLs for Leica Wetzlar during the 1980s.
Don't confuse the Leica CL with Minolta's look alike, the CLE. The CLE
is battery dependent and is no longer repaired by Minolta. And parts
are hard to come by.
- Olympus RC:
- shutter priority camera is fully operable without
batteries. The shutter works at all speeds up to 1/500ths of a second
without batteries and you can set the fstops manually. Plus you get
manual rangefinder focusing, and a fast, sharp 43mm coated lens
with a lot of depth of field.
- But pop in a battery and there is even more:
- 1. Automatic exposure with shutter priority
- 2. The best non-TTL flash system available; you
indicate the flash guide number and the camera automatically sets the
correct aperture as you focus.
- see http://www.ph.utexas.edu/~yue/misc/rangfndr.html
- 35mm compact:
- Rollei 35 with HFT lens - metal
- Minox 35GSE - plastic, very quiet, small but unfortunately is
- Olympus XA - but unfortunately is battery dependent.
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